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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:28 am 
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Location: Sarnia, ON, CA
I am going to renovate my basement, now is the time to do it right regarding power for the components.

is it as simple as a dedicated grounded circuit where i will plug in the components, or are there other things i can do to have the best possible power supply?

Thanks.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:36 am 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, CA
Multiple, dedicated 20A circuits with hospital grade receptacles would be my suggestion. If you haven't already, also consider a whole home surge protector as well.

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Audio: JMLab Mezzo Utopias, Oracle Delphi Mk 1/6, SME V, Koetsu Urushi Vermillion, AR Ref 3, AR Ref Phono2 SE, AR Ref75SE, AR CD3, MD FT101
Video: Anthem AVM60, Krell 402e, 2 X Anthem MCA-50, Totem Mani2 M1 ctr Mite s/b, Storm sub Rega P6/RB2K, Steelhead


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 4:13 am 
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Location: St.Catharines, ON, CA
Bathroom reading.

http://avocationsystems.com/wp/wp-conte ... s-Etc1.pdf

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/SurgeXPowerGround.pdf

Gary


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:07 am 
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Location: North Bruce Penninsula, ON, CA
I use a UPS. Everything is powered from it's internal battery at a nice constant voltage, constantly protected from surges and spikes.. If you have a power failure it gives you time to shut everything off.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 6:50 am 
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Location: Sarnia, ON, CA
Thanks guys, I have some reading to do.

i did a quick search on UPS, per usual they range in price from hundreds to thousands of dollars.

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HT
Anthem MRX510
SVS Prime towers, center, SB2000 sub
Oppo 105

2 Channel
Anthem I225
Rega RP6/Dyna 10x5/Schiit Mani
Oppo 105
Vandersteen 2C


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:17 am 
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UPS good for computers not so much for audio.

G


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:27 am 
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Location: Markham, ON, CA
sasquatch wrote:
UPS good for computers not so much for audio.

G


The major benefit of a UPS is not how good it sounds when the power fails; it is how well it protects your equipment WHEN the power fails. I have UPS systems in three locations in my house. If we have a power failure I still have lighting, telephone (we use IP) and computers. As well as two choices of stereo systems. I am pretty picky; I cannot tell an audible difference between battery supplied and true AC delivery. But I have total surge protection (via an electronic "firewall") and the ability to safetly shut down systems before any damage can occur.

Given the cost of a "whole-home" UPS solution, I opted for the stand-alone systems located close to each system. In terms of cost, I use APC and they are very reasonably priced; the system for my combined office stereo / hub router / security system / telephone was less than $100. And I have four hours of battery backup. The other (stereo) backups were a couple of hundred bucks each.

I was in the telecom business for 28 years; we used (and still do) battery backup on all our telecom systems for both client use and within the network. There is no degradation of transmission capability while on battery.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:31 am 
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Location: Winnipeg, MB, CA
for adding dedicated lines, taking them to a small service panel box near the outlet make for an easy kill switch for storms etc. Utility looking but many ways to address that out of site.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:42 am 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, CA
A UPS is a good choice for some equipment, and I also use an APC J15 for my video system, but only for the source components and TV, not for the amplifiers (or subs) as the draw would be far too much. My Krell amp has it's own 20A circuit, and the anthem MCA-50s (2) and subs (2) are on the other 20A circuit, which also has the J15 and source components on it.

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Audio: JMLab Mezzo Utopias, Oracle Delphi Mk 1/6, SME V, Koetsu Urushi Vermillion, AR Ref 3, AR Ref Phono2 SE, AR Ref75SE, AR CD3, MD FT101
Video: Anthem AVM60, Krell 402e, 2 X Anthem MCA-50, Totem Mani2 M1 ctr Mite s/b, Storm sub Rega P6/RB2K, Steelhead


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 7:46 am 
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Sorry, back onto things to consider for the basement. In our renovation we ran Cat5 to various locations within the walls and to cable trays under the main floor; this gives us easy access to telecom-type upgrades in the future without tearing down walls etc. I ran Cat5 into separate cable pulls in the walls. All the cables run back into the electrical power panel area.

This is opportune time to pre-wire a good quality speaker wiring to various points on the new walls. terminate them in electrical boxes. Mount the boxes at a pre-determined point in the walls. Take pictures of the locations then email them to yourself; that way, even years later, you will know where in the walls you have wiring.

The hidden wiring makes options for speaker placement easy and uncluttered. There are some great bulk cabling available .

I agree that a separately fused 20A circuit is in order; I suggest you terminate at least two outlets; one at the standard (low) height, and a second one at a higher point on the wall behind your component stand. It is also a great idea to run a separate ground (number 6 wire) back to the water pipe and bond it there (just a proper cable clamp). A separate and discrete ground will ensure a clean, unadulterated ground for your system. This is important. If you have room , you can mount your UPS inside the electrical room/panel. Otherwise (as I did) placing the UPS close to the components is great and the display on the UPS will show you status if you experience a power outage; my systems give me a count-down of minutes of usage left before the battery is exhausted.

Run a couple of spare 15A wire pulls into other rooms before you install a ceiling...again this will give you trouble free options for future power needs. Wire is cheap. Retrofitting wiring is not.

I do not recommend running any cabling under raised floors. Also, stay to the code. If (heaven forbid) you ever have an insurance claim, you will have your insurance VOIDED if you build anything not to code. Especially electrical. Don't risk it.

Insulation (especially Safe-N-Sound) is your friend; stuff that material into every nook and cranny. It makes a big difference. Spray-foam any cracks in sill-to-foundation spaces.

A little "extra" work now will pay big dividends later.

Good luck!
Tom


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 8:23 am 
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In an otherwise very appealing post from brownslane, this is the one piece of advice I would personally hesitate to follow.

brownslane wrote:
This is opportune time to pre-wire a good quality speaker wiring to various points on the new walls. terminate them in electrical boxes. Mount the boxes at a pre-determined point in the walls. Take pictures of the locations then email them to yourself; that way, even years later, you will know where in the walls you have wiring.


In taking this advice, I would be presuming on future needs. @OP, you might not be — IOW you already are certain of exactly what you want, in a future that is not too far away.

For me, having speaker wire in the walls means, most important, that I have to choose wire that is certified to code. Otherwise I risk my insurance coverage. Unfortunately not all wire is certified, and in fact the choice of certified wire is somewhat limited, among the best speaker wire available. So I have limited the sound quality of the system which eventually uses the built-in wire, right from the start.

This may not be of much importance in some situations — a home cinema setup for example, or a secondary system. I would not expect to be able to use the cable I wanted for my dream system, and there's the limitation.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:25 am 
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Thanks everyone,

so far i have:

two 20A powered hospital outlets, one higher up the wall behind where the stand will be.

pre wire for rear speakers, through the ceiling not under the raised floor.

spray foam the walls

UPS seems controversial, i may follow the surge protector reco found on the wirecutter site, i've followed their reco's a few times and they haven't lied.

_________________
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Anthem MRX510
SVS Prime towers, center, SB2000 sub
Oppo 105

2 Channel
Anthem I225
Rega RP6/Dyna 10x5/Schiit Mani
Oppo 105
Vandersteen 2C


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 2:40 pm 
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Consider using cryo-treated 12-gauge Romex for the AC wiring. Available from CAM sponsors Audio Sensibility and Take Five Audio.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:02 pm 
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Sorry Toby...
from the link previous...

G


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 3:14 pm 
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Location: Hamilton, ON, CA
bcugk wrote:
I am going to renovate my basement, now is the time to do it right regarding power for the components.

is it as simple as a dedicated grounded circuit where i will plug in the components, or are there other things i can do to have the best possible power supply?

Thanks.


Ensure (if running more than one 15/20A line) that the two (or more) AC line/feeds are from the same 'phase' of the circuit breaker/fuse panel. Or that household appliance power feeds share a common "phase' -distinct/separate from sensitive electronics/hi-fi.

If possible, consider a Balanced/Symmetrical Power Transformer (i.e. Equi=tech) right at the Fuse/Breaker panel itself -feeding the necessary number of required (dedicated) AC lines/
(Balanced/Symmetrical (Out-board) Power units/Supply's could of course also be used)

I'd question the use of any expensive (audiophile) wiring -for this application. But certainly quality (Lab/Hospital Grade) AC receptacles is wise.

pj


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