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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 1:55 pm 
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Location: Calgary, AB, CA
Hi

I have a Roksan Kandy K3 Integrated Amp (140-watts per channel into 8 ohms and 220-watts into 4 ohms) and Totem Model-1 Signature (4ohm) speakers, which can be bi-amped. I love the clarity of the sound, but was wonder if adding the K3 Power Amp would add some additional warmth and body to the sound?

As a newbie I'm not sure when it is appropriate to add a power amp with an integrated amp.

Thanks and take care,
Shayne


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 2:20 pm 
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I see no gain in your case. You can compare the specs here.

http://www.roksan.co.uk/products/k3-integrated-amplifier/

and

http://www.roksan.co.uk/products/k3-power-amplifier/

Regards
Ohms

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 3:21 pm 
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Looks like you've got quite a rocking integrated ... were it of a lower caliber, or output, I'd say there would be performance improvement to be had with a power amp. While a dedicated power amp "might" give you a touch more performance, for the money invested, probably a poor return.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 3:40 pm 
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Awhile back I was driving a set of Harbeth SHL5's with a Bryston B135sst2 and somebody suggested I bi-amp using a Bryston 2.5Bsst2 power amp plugged into the pre-outs of the 135. For the life of me I couldn't hear a difference. I then tried it with a couple of other pairs of speakers and if there was a difference to be heard it wasn't enough for me to be sure. Based on those results ( and yes I know, different components ) I would think the money would be better spent elsewhere. As always, YMMV.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:26 pm 
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With an A/V receiver, there can be a noticeable difference adding a power amp to the pre-outs, but that tends to show the shortcomings of the processing and preamplifier section of the receiver. But your Roksan unit is already very good all around.

You would probably need to upgrade to a separates, each worth as much as your integrated, in order to hear a noticeable difference in performance.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 6:57 am 
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Hi shaynegw,
Adding a power amplifier would mean that you are almost at a point to use an electronic crossover for your speakers. So if you do that, the difference would be impressive.

Note that you would have to remove or modify the existing passive crossover and have the electronic one set up to take it's place. If you aren't going to go that far, the extra amplifier will not buy you much.

-Chris


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 9:29 am 
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Thanks

I already have the integrated amp, and now understand a power amp from the same line wouldn't add warmth or body to the sound. But if I looked for a non-Roksan power amp which would influence the sound more, the integrated pre-amp or a power amp?

Thanks and take care,
Shayne


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:18 am 
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Either. Some integrated amps are the same amplifier as separates. Then it depends on which you like the sound of if they are different. For example, a Marantz 170DC is close to an 1180DC. But they do sound different.

-Chris


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 9:09 am 
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shaynegw wrote:
Thanks

I already have the integrated amp, and now understand a power amp from the same line wouldn't add warmth or body to the sound. But if I looked for a non-Roksan power amp which would influence the sound more, the integrated pre-amp or a power amp?

Thanks and take care,
Shayne


In my experience the pre-amp plays a huge role in the overall presentation of the system. More so than the power amp. If you are not happy with the Roksan sound, you may want to look at other integrateds (naim, cyrus etc). Or if funds allow, separates from another manufacturer.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:16 am 
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shaynegw wrote:
Hi

I have a Roksan Kandy K3 Integrated Amp (140-watts per channel into 8 ohms and 220-watts into 4 ohms) and Totem Model-1 Signature (4ohm) speakers, which can be bi-amped. I love the clarity of the sound, but was wonder if adding the K3 Power Amp would add some additional warmth and body to the sound?

As a newbie I'm not sure when it is appropriate to add a power amp with an integrated amp.

Thanks and take care,
Shayne


This "warmth" and "Body" is not a feature you'd find in a "really good" amplifier.

I believe a "really good" is just a straight wire with gain -- totally transparent.

That allows you to listen to the components upstream. The hypothesis goes, if all of the components upstream are totally transparent, you are then listening to the source recording. If the source recording has the required accuracy, you're listening to the artist/engineer.

Obviously, you can break this transparency at any point in the chain. After which all recordings will be coloured with the same distortion characteristics. You may feel that some are improved, but those truly great recordings will not be.

All IMO of course.

So, in my opinion, you could pick up the Benchmark AB-H and a really good DAC with a volume control and you'd be all set.


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