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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2016 5:12 pm 
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Location: Burlington, ON, CA
Never tried it I hear it dulls it down. Too much damping they all say. I had these shims so I tried it. If you have any hard wood platform give it a try. I had mdf and particle board also. Maple is a whole new league.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:47 am 
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Location: Burlington, ON, CA
:hi rip

Have u ever tried wrapping your arm in Teflon tape?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:01 am 
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Location: Milton, ON, CA
I have a Vanden hul colibri cartridge that I found only really worked well on very light effective mass arms. So I have landed on the SME series 3. I also found that by wrapping the entire arm tube with Teflon tape it tames the resonances even more. I just use the kind that plumbers used to seal threaded fittings. It's very thin and light and you can stretch it to increase the tension. It really doesn't raise the effective mass at all.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 6:06 am 
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Kel34 wrote:
:hi rip

Have u ever tried wrapping your arm in Teflon tape?

Great minds think a like!!


Or shall we say fools seldom differ LOL


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 6:59 am 
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After reading your original post, I gave it a try in December.

I had upgraded last year from a Dynavector 20x2 (9.2 g) to a London Decca Super Gold (6.7 g), so I found the tweak made a noticeable difference in the bass response (without sacrificing the mids or highs).

My RB300 already had the following tweaks: Incognito wire, Audio Origami SOFC external cable, and Michell tecnoweight, so I believe I'm approaching the limits of tweaking this arm. I have to say it does sound very... pleasing.

EDIT: forgot to mention I also have a VPI VTA sleeve.

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Last edited by NordicNorm on Thu Feb 02, 2017 8:06 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 7:19 am 
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Location: Burlington, ON, CA
My results were the same as yours Norm. Brass shims under the headshell is another 15-20% improvement. I also have a VTAF which is a phenomenal improvement. Still curious about Teflon tape


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:00 pm 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
Kel34 wrote:
:hi rip

Have u ever tried wrapping your arm in Teflon tape?
No I haven't. Would electrical tape be any different? At least it's black lol.

My understanding is that the paint is designed to provide damping, which is why I didn't remove it when I did the mods.

What kind of improvements does the Teflon tape bring to the sound?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:25 pm 
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I've read about it often but never tried it. Your tweak was so good it got me thinking about it again. It's suppose dampen resonance. It's a poor man's tonearm wrap but apparently just as effective.

-- 03 Feb 2017 00:26 --

I didn't know about the paint. Some people take it off and say it's an improvement


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 4:53 pm 
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Kel34 wrote:
I didn't know about the paint. Some people take it off and say it's an improvement
I guess it depends on one's preferences. Jeff Spall's advice is to leave it be if you're not planning on drilling and installing bulkheads as the wand rings quite a bit more without it. Since he was there before me I took his word for it. I did strip the paint off the headshell as it affords tighter coupling and clamping pressure for the screws and cartridge. It also improves the effectiveness of the cookie, at least for the way I have the washers stacked with the brass one against the shell.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 5:46 pm 
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Glenn, just wondered if you weighed this with the nylon bolt? (and the source of the nylon bolt, the same, LV?). Kwadzilla say 1.7g w/brass, I ask because my current assembly with a 103r and a club wood damping plate has the Kerry heavy weight pretty close to the end of the arm. I'm guessing the nylon screw may take it down by a .25-.5 gm?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 6:15 pm 
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Che, the nylon bolt I'm using weighs 0.62g. This is a 1/4-20 that I found at an electronics surplus store. If weight is an issue the sizes that kwadzilla used will be lighter. You can probably find something close at Sayal or some other electronics supply outlet as these are often used for PCB standoffs.

If you do go with the nylon screw you can probably use a nylon washer under it instead of brass, saving a little more weight. Hard to say what will sound good in your particular case, but nylon on one side of the shell and brass on the other works for me.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 6:25 pm 
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I'm thinking I could always sub the little allen bolt in the CW for a brass bolt and rubber and brass washers. I wonder how much extra mass that bearing is good for? :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 6:32 pm 
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All the added weight probably reduces chatter :lol:.

I've got my Kerry C/W sitting right near the back too. No probs here. :)


BTW, that little setscrew has a nylon tip, I believe. I wouldn't sub it out.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 7:20 pm 
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^ what cart, Rip?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:41 am 
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Presently, a Benz ACE, but prior to that was Lyra Kleos. I developed the tweak while I had an AT OC9/II on the arm. Don't know the weight of each offhand, but my arm distance seems to be a little shorter than kwadzilla's as he wasn't able to use the 1/4-10 bolt that I use without shifting the cartridge forward. I'm assuming mine is short because this has happened to me before. :wink:

As you know, arm distance is not as important as overhang for proper alignment and low distortion.

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