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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2016 6:01 pm
Posts: 50
Location: Winnipeg, MB, CA
What difference does it really make if you take care not to over do it ? Can you use a low power amplifier and hurt a low impedance speaker? If you play any amplifier at reasonable levels it should be fine. What you think fellas?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 26, 2010 7:42 am
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Location: stirling, ON, CA
What do you really want to know?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:16 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2012 10:07 am
Posts: 183
Location: Repentigny, QC, CA
you could drive the l p amp to clipping, I suppose; but you are saying 'keep the volume down'
- that problem resolved.
not all low impedance speakers are 'difficult' loads to an amp, due to speaker sensitivity & phase angle
- my 4 Ohm Yamahas are 90db sensitive, for ex. (that issue solved).

large driver (8'' and plus) speakers may well benefit from an amp w/ a high damping factor, and that amp may be low in power.

most listening is done with 1-2 watts anyway, negating the need for an amp w/ high output
- that trouble resolved.
BUT,
it is true that for, say, Magnepans you would need some drive, and a low power amp cannot deliver the goods. The speakers cannot shine, lack bass etc. A problem not solved.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 8:43 am
Posts: 945
Location: Stratford, ON, CA
Hi,

Good question. I have used low powered amps and high powered amps and over the last 50 years I have never had a clipping issue. But this is because for me 85 db in my living room is really really loud. If I have a speaker that is rated at 85 db for one watt of input at a distance of one meter and they are paired, then one clean watt coming from each channel of the amplifier is going to inevitably lead to my spouse saying 'turn it down'. Sure, there are peaks and climaxes and all that, but at anything like sane in-door levels most amps are using only a fraction of their power. If you go really low, like with a 2A3 single ended tube design then you only have 3.5 watts per channel so it makes sense to have a 90 db rated speaker or higher. The inverse is also true. If you want to drive eight foot high Golden Ear Tritons with eight drivers per side and quite complicated cross-overs, then that 2A3 might be a tad light.

There are lots of folks on CAM who are driving three way bass reflex floor standers with second order cross-overs using a NAD 3020, which was conservatively rated at 20 watts per channel, and they are loving it. For sure some inefficient acoustic suspension style mini-monitors may need more power to control the bass and to open them up. Magnepan owners routinely seek out big power amps and some use pro-audio Class D amps to get the sound they want from planars. But there are scads of speakers that will work, even if not brilliantly, with a 10 watt T amp, particularly if not LOUD.

I always prefer musical amps over muscle.

Cheers,
David Neice

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Chinese Proverb: 'Man who waits for roast duck to fly into mouth, waits very, very long time'.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 24, 2009 3:36 pm
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Location: Vernon, BC, CA
For example my Pass Labs X250.5 never leaves Class A (first 20 watts) yet it has enough grunt to give me a truly full range sound with my current speakers at levels around 57-60 decibels. In my room playing "loud" averages no more than 78 decibels with this amp and speaker combo. I've had bookshelf speakers in here that need to be played at 90 decibels just to reach satisfactory playback of some material. Throw ATC SCM10 Signature Edition on a Rogue Sphinx v2 and you might need the amp running at 100%. Long story short some pairings won't push gear to the limits.

Assuming you are talking about ad descriptions the poster could just be bragging about associated gear...who knows.


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