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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:42 pm 
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Hi all,

I just picked up a Rega Planar 2 with an R200 tonearm, and as I was setting it up/fiddling around I think I busted the anti-skate mechanism. I gather this happens fairly often with these older tables, and I looked up the fix but it looks pretty complex. I'm new to all of this, and while I'm up for putting in a little bit of work, I don't want to mess anything else up while I'm at it. Any thoughts on how I should proceed?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:53 pm 
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Just play without antiskating.

I think it's pretty common with VPI unipivot tonearms, people opt not to use antiskating.

After a couple thousand hours play your stylus will show greater wear on one side than the other. This as a result of a tonearm being subject to a slight acceleration toward the centre of the record from the mass and angle of the cartridge tracking the disc.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:54 pm 
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You might get lucky and the belt broke with the anti-skating already set in the right position. Try it as it is. You never know.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 3:12 pm 
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OK, thanks. A bit of a drag to break something basically the first time I touched it, but oh well! I suppose this is a realistic entry into a world that seems to involve a fair bit of fiddling and fixing :)

Is there any way for me to know what number the anti-skate was set at when it broke?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 3:22 pm 
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back off the weight till the arm raises, the arm will either move inwards or outwards, If it stays still its set properly.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 3:26 pm 
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A zero-balanced arm will be pulled gently away from the spindle, to compensate for the inward pull of the grooves on the stylus.

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1978 Rickenbacker 4001, 2010 Gibson Thunderbird, and Dean Fretless Basses;
1987 Guild Nightbird, 2000 Taylor 310KCE, and Godin 5th Avenue Guitars.

If you can use one of those newfangled Internets, you can post photos in your damn classified ads. :roll:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 3:33 pm 
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Hi,

racecars is right. The boss of VPI doesn't believe in anti-skating force and their recommended compensation is generally to add .25 more grams of stylus down-force. We need to know what cartridge you are using and the recommended stylus force 'range' for it. Google that for us. With an elliptical stylus, keeping the stylus down force at or under 2 grams (even with the extra .25 added in) is a good idea. With a conical stylus you can get up to about 2.5 grams total and still have normal vinyl and stylus wear. You would need a RB200 owner to tell you if the antiskate on your unit was set at zero or where it might have been when the belt broke. I really recommend you get a stylus force guage - digital is not needed, but a nice thing to have. I have run tables with and without antiskate and I can tell you that getting the VTA (vertical tracking angle) and the overhang and null points set correctly as well as getting the optimum stylus down pressure to ensure there is no 'sibilance' while tracking the grooves are far more important items than antiskate pressure.

Cheers,
David Neice



Cheers,
David Neice

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 5:00 pm 
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Wow, thanks all. The cartridge is a Grado ZT+, and the recommended tracking force is 1.5g. I don't know if I'll stick with that cartridge; I'm guessing it's pretty old by now and it might not be a bad idea to get something new.

When I back the weight off a bit, the arm swings gently but decidedly outwards. I *think* it was set to somewhere between 0.5 and 1 when I started to adjust it—I was trying to move it back toward 0, and if I recall it was not *that* far away. The dial was really stiff, and I don't think it moved much from where it was before it broke.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 5:47 pm 
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Any suggestions for a digital force-tracking gauge? Is this kind of thing reasonably decent? https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Digital-Turntable-Backlight-Cartridge-Jet/dp/B071WPRKXN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:06 pm 
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two2the8 wrote:
Any suggestions for a digital force-tracking gauge? Is this kind of thing reasonably decent? https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Digital-Turntable-Backlight-Cartridge-Jet/dp/B071WPRKXN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8


I have one of those, but I got it even cheaper on eBay from China.
They sell the same one under different brand names.
I also have a Shure stylus force gauge ... not digital, but it works.

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1978 Rickenbacker 4001, 2010 Gibson Thunderbird, and Dean Fretless Basses;
1987 Guild Nightbird, 2000 Taylor 310KCE, and Godin 5th Avenue Guitars.

If you can use one of those newfangled Internets, you can post photos in your damn classified ads. :roll:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:20 pm 
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https://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_f ... 32&t=49784

The part number you need is 'A 6B 18M140030'
http://shop.sdp-si.com/catalog/product/ ... B18M140030


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:40 pm 
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That looks like a massive undertaking, and the OP did say that he wasn't comfortable with major surgery. If it was me, I would just look for a new tonearm.
There must be people with P1 Regas upgrading from the stock tonearm, and looking to sell them. The R200 is an OK tonearm, but not worth a lot of effort.

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1978 Rickenbacker 4001, 2010 Gibson Thunderbird, and Dean Fretless Basses;
1987 Guild Nightbird, 2000 Taylor 310KCE, and Godin 5th Avenue Guitars.

If you can use one of those newfangled Internets, you can post photos in your damn classified ads. :roll:


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 6:48 pm 
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Quadzilla wrote:
That looks like a massive undertaking, and the OP did say that he wasn't comfortable with major surgery. If it was me, I would just look for a new tonearm.
There must be people with P1 Regas upgrading from the stock tonearm, and looking to sell it. The R200 is an OK tonearm, but not worth a lot of effort.


Aaron, don't waste your money on a stock tonearm from a P1. Look for a good used RB-250. This is a big step forward and a good, solid, easy to set up tonearm. This tonearm/turntable package will rival $1,500 dollar decks all day long. I have two decks running RB 250 derivatives (Origin Live) and they are stellar. And this arm will carry a wide range of cartridges. I have a Dynavector 10X5 on one, the other is carrying a Hana SL. World-class. Denon make some great MM carts that would work great on this arm as well (like the DL-110). I bought a DL-110 for a friend's clearadio a few weeks back and it is a REALLY good sounding moving magnet cart.

If you decide to install a 250 arm, I can give you all the setup dimensions for the tonearm hole, etc....it may even be the same mounting point as your existing arm....

I absolutely agree with Quad about the R200 arm. Not a bad arm, just not a great one! 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 7:03 pm 
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Hi Again,

The arm replacements mentioned are good suggestions, but let's play around with what you have got now and see it as a learning curve that you will need anyway if you decide to change the arm.

Let's say that the anti-skate on your RB200 got stuck at somewhere between .5 and 1.0 and that you have checked and when the arm can swing freely it moves outward gradually. Now usually, if say the cartridge is rated to track at 1.5 grams, then a pretty sane amount of anti-skate would be say half that or a setting of .75, which is 'hypothetically' about where you are at - provided the stylus force is actually measured at 1.5 grams.

The Grado ZTE +1 is a decent budget elliptical stylus tracker, and if I remember correctly, can be boosted up to even 1.75 or so of stylus down force. In the case of budget cartridges where the cantilever material within the stylus assembly is often not very 'compliant' it is better to run those cartridges right up near or at the upper limits of the stylus pressure range. So, ....

1) with the cartridge mounted and a record on the TT but stationary, let the arm and stylus drop into a vinyl groove, say in a middle track. Look at the arm from the side - it should be lying there dead parallel to the surface of the record. If it is - you have the right VTA - if not you will need to shim the cartridge, if possible.

2) determine the stylus overhang needed for the RB200. Google it. Place the cartridge directly over the center spindle. The overhang is a measurement from the very centre of the spindle to the stylus tip. Loosen (very lightly) the cartridge screws and wiggle the cartridge to get it right.

3) you won't have a tonearm protractor, so the null points are not available. But, a rough substitute is to ensure that the front of the cartridge is dead square to the front of the head-shell, or, even better, just turned about one or even two degrees inward towards the spindle for that arm.

4) Recheck the stylus down force. Set it near the upper recommended levels.

5) Repeat steps one to four above sequentially, until all is well. Tighten the cartridge screws with care. Often they turn the cartridge body in ways you don't want.

Play a record with female voice and listen for any sibilance (on s words) that seems to be more than you might normally expect. If undue sibilance is present, try increasing the stylus pressure in small steps of .10 grams.

Cheers,
David Neice

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 7:10 pm 
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I agree that the RB250 is a lot better tonearm than the P1 uses, but I suggested it mainly because he might find one cheap.
The OP is new to vinyl, and he might not want to jump in with both feet ... yet. I expect that either Rega arm would drop right in.

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1978 Rickenbacker 4001, 2010 Gibson Thunderbird, and Dean Fretless Basses;
1987 Guild Nightbird, 2000 Taylor 310KCE, and Godin 5th Avenue Guitars.

If you can use one of those newfangled Internets, you can post photos in your damn classified ads. :roll:


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