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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:34 am 
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Location: Calgary, AB, CA
Hello, I have the dreaded alarm sound on my Monster Power AVS2000 Voltage Stabilizer Regulator Conditioner sounding, and I assume it's the picafuse that is heat shrink wrapped internally.
Would anyone have any information as to what and where to source these?. A call to Monster Power was completely useless. They don't fix these, they don't supply parts for these, there discontinued, it'll be the last one I ever buy :(((
Any help would be greatly appreciated.


https://hometheaterreview.com/monster-a ... -reviewed/


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:57 am 
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Cut off shrink and read the fuse?

Did u test fuse for continuity?

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 10:34 am 
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Location: Cobourg, ON, CA
It should be a 15 amp fuse.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 11:13 pm 
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If it's a fuse, something made it blow and the owners manual states "NO USER SERVICEABLE PARTS INSIDE " (like that stops some people......). Also, there's nothing about what the protection circuit is or what it actually does.
Sounds like Monster is dropping the ball.
From their website:
What do I do if I hear a high pitched alarm from the Monster Power Center?
Audible alarm sounds when the protection circuit has been disabled. The product should be immediately unplugged. Contact your dealer or Monster Cable for service.

You pretty well need a service manual, or at least a schematic, and good luck with that quest.

Is it still supplying power to your system or has it put itself into some kind of shutdown mode? If it is still powering your system, can you verify that it's still conditioning? Disabling protection might mean that your equipment is no longer protected from surges, etc. Or it may mean that the protection circuits have shut down the outlets to protect your equipment. The User Manual sure leaves a lot to be desired.......

Either there is a problem with the protection circuit, or there is a problem elsewhere that is causing the system to disable protection. Why would anything intentionally disable protection you might ask? Good question.

Let's work on the assumption that there IS an on board pico fuse.
There's a caveat to what I would do: it has potential to be destructive so safety first, and don't do it if you feel it's too deep and involved (and dangerous), 'cause it could be.

First, unplug it, wait some time, open it up and determine whether the fuse is blown (if there is a fuse, without a schematic...........who knows if or how many there are, or even their association with the protection circuit.) If possible, identify the fuse rating.

If it's not blown, you're stuck with hunting and pecking the thing looking for open, shorted, burnt, smelly etc. parts, some of which may be tiny. Think integrated circuits. (With a schematic, you could always check for continuity between obvious points and check potentials at circuit test points, but, you know......)

If it's blown, put something solid between you and it. A brick wall works real good.

Get the whole gamut of pico fuses (I think there's something like 20 ratings from 50 ma to something like 1.5 amps?).
Get a breadboard and line them up incrementing from lowest rating to highest.
Use miniclips and alligator type leads to stretch from both sides of the blown fuse to both sides of the lowest rated pico fuse on the breadboard. If it blows, try the next largest fuse, and work your way up. (Don't worry about any resistance caused by the test leads at this point.)
At some point, something should happen that indicates something.
Like:
1. Every fuse blows: tells you that something downstream is shorted or drawing too much current.
2. At some point the alarm stops and things stabelize and appears to work ok: something caused the original fuse to blow, and put the system into protection. Now you could use the thing and see if maybe the problem is solved, and it was a condition rarely seen by the system that blew the fuse.........or not.
3. Ideally, the fuse rating that works now would be close to the original fuse; if it's much larger, you may still have a problem downstream like a resistor that has cooked itself so that it is now way out of tolerance or a capacitor has started leaking or a transistor has mucked up. Shyte happens......
4. Anything else that makes a difference in current operation. Only your hairdresser knows for sure.

I would still get on Monster's case; a good company would still stand behind something that is discontinued but serviceable. Sure, you'd have to pay, but if you've troubleshot it already to a point where they might think it would be easy money for them they might be more willing to help.
Good luck.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:07 am 
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??? Keep putting in higher value fuse until it didn't blow?! Nice....

Or remove shrink and see if there's a value on it you can read.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 6:30 am 
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A pico fuse is normally for small current values, could be for the display and control boards?

Or you may have a transorb or fast acting device like MOV that is short ( it did his job of protecting your equipment) and this
MOV does trip a circuit breaker or burns a fuse inside that should be of a higher rating like 15A.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 10:25 am 
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pico fuses can be high current. (Eg, +8A) They just have a heavier gauge set of wire leads.

that unit needs to be stripped by a pro and that fuse looked at.

It might go beyond just a bad fuse.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 11:27 am 
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Location: Markham, ON, CA
As a previous owner of Monster let me state, unequivocally, I will never spend another dime on one. They really are throw-away. In my case the motherboard had failed...but there were arcing traces all over the system. It was (effectively) a fire looking for a place to start.

It was less expensive for me to purchase a battery backup system than it would to even attempt to repair the Monster.

Sorry about your problems. I Strongly suggest you take it to a recognized professional. These products (monster) are poorly made from minimal-quality parts. If you make the smallest mistake, it will fry.

Alternately (sorry to say) just save your money and buy something else that has some quality. It sucks, but I had to do it myself.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 11:47 am 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
brownslane wrote:
Alternately (sorry to say) just save your money and buy something else that has some quality. It sucks, but I had to do it myself.


I think their power bars are still a great value, especially on video systems (assuming they still sell them, have not bought anything from them in years). They also probably have more units in the field than anyone. Their PR sucks, no doubt.

Out of curiosity, what model of theirs failed?

I think for OP there is even the chance it saved his equipment from a surge. Maybe I am being too d*mn optimistic today though. I think consensus is for many of these, once they take a hit, they are disposable.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 12:15 pm 
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Location: St.Catharines, ON, CA
Is that a motorized variac I see?
I'd be scared to have it in my house.

Gary


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2017 1:42 pm 
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Location: Markham, ON, CA
mdl_tor wrote:
brownslane wrote:
Alternately (sorry to say) just save your money and buy something else that has some quality. It sucks, but I had to do it myself.


I think their power bars are still a great value, especially on video systems (assuming they still sell them, have not bought anything from them in years). They also probably have more units in the field than anyone. Their PR sucks, no doubt.

Out of curiosity, what model of theirs failed?

I think for OP there is even the chance it saved his equipment from a surge. Maybe I am being too d*mn optimistic today though. I think consensus is for many of these, once they take a hit, they are disposable.



Mine was a 2,000. It just went BANG! and nothing. Zero. Zilch. Took it to Drago and he called the time of death. Everything inside was smoked. You could see tracings over all the boards. Just. Junk.

It LOOKED nice, however :) Monster polish their turds really well!


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 25, 2017 7:24 am 
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Location: Eastern Passage, NS, CA
It's going to be hard to troubleshoot it without seeing it, or photos of the inside of the unit...

I have a feeling the "pico fuses" you're describing are likely thermal fuses and not actual pico fuses. The thermal fuses are usually placed agaisnt MOV's using Kapton tape or shrink tube. The reason for that is very simple. MOV's are designed to adsorb the energy from electrical surges and are a one time use device. When that happens, they intentionally burn up, which causes the thermal fuse to open from the heat of the MOV self destructing. Most power conditioners with surge protection will have a "Protection OK" light and/or "Fault" light (Tripp Lite usually have both indications). These lights indicate the state of the MOV's through the thermal fuses. Monster Power products use an alarm to indicate a fault.

Parts are easy to find, everything will be available on Digikey.

My advice? Take it to a good tech, it should be a fairly straight forward repair.


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