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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 5:27 pm 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
PM7000 is a Marantz entry level int. amp issued around 2000...my first int. amp actually...too many amps afterwards... it has been left in the corner collecting dust for 2 or 3 years...until recently I decided to pay it a visit...
For an elec gear of that age (14 years old), especially not be used for 2 or 3 years, a thorough clean and check is necessary. Besides, it has a minor issue, slight clicking sound can be heard from time to time, which I believe was the relay - need clean up or replacement.

I'm pretty sure this PM7000 is still in working condition even though it has not been used for 2, 3 years...some Marantz can live for ever. Why bother disassemble and do some stuff on it? Well, for starters, if I don't DIY on it, this thread will not be tolerated here by our beloved moderator...;-) Secondly, just like we maintain our cars, with proper maintenance, we can keep our gears in good state, and extend their serving life. And above all, PM7000 sounds decent, it's worth a re-visit.

For a Marantz of similar age or older, note followings:
-It has many wires from various boards connect to chassis ...if disassemble the machine, remember to connect ALL of them back to chassis before you turn on power...remember this!!! Take as much photos as needed to keep track these wires...
-Solder joints, especially the ones for connectors, and some "big" or "hot" parts...as time goes, either they "suffer" from tension or heat or bad quality, some solder joints might eventually go bad and cause "disasters"...Don't get me wrong, Marantz build quality is solid, but you cannot expect your machine to work forever without taking care of them ...;-)

So, my target is to:
-Clean the machine, including clean the relays;
-Recap as necessary;
-Re-solder some solder joints...


Attachments:
InsideOverView_FromFront.jpg
InsideOverView_FromFront.jpg [ 213.86 KiB | Viewed 2874 times ]
File comment: Power caps are NCC, not PHILIPS as said by http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/marantzpm7000_e.html
Cap_Size.jpg
Cap_Size.jpg [ 201.03 KiB | Viewed 2874 times ]
File comment: Top right/left you can see some black wires connect to chassis via screws
InsideOverView_FromBack.jpg
InsideOverView_FromBack.jpg [ 240.76 KiB | Viewed 2874 times ]


Last edited by Frank Wang on Thu Oct 05, 2017 6:06 pm, edited 6 times in total.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 5:45 pm 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
Add one photo showing one wire connect to middle of the chassis...


Attachments:
File comment: One wire connect to middle of the chassis...
IMG_0154.JPG
IMG_0154.JPG [ 160.5 KiB | Viewed 2855 times ]
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 Post subject: Power board
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 6:29 pm 
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Posts: 294
Location: Toronto, ON, CA
On power board:
-Recap elec. caps;
-Clean relay

Remove back panel and front panel...put their screws into their own bags...even though most of the screws are the same.

Maybe due to flux residual, the board is a bit "sticky" - dust cannot be easily cleaned, will wash and clean after recap.

On the caps labeled their manufacture date, e.g. one of the cap marked "0231" means 31st week of 2002...so, this PM7000 was made in 2002 actually ;-)

-- 08 Dec 2016 02:41 --

Power board recapped...cleaned.

Power relay top cover removed, contact point cleaned...


Attachments:
PowerBoardRelay.jpg
PowerBoardRelay.jpg [ 142.94 KiB | Viewed 2826 times ]
PowerBoardCleaned.jpg
PowerBoardCleaned.jpg [ 178.99 KiB | Viewed 2826 times ]
File comment: Back panel removed...
BackPanelRemoved.jpg
BackPanelRemoved.jpg [ 173.99 KiB | Viewed 2833 times ]
File comment: Put screws of each section into bags...will make life easier when putting them back
BackPanelScrewsBagged.jpg
BackPanelScrewsBagged.jpg [ 127.86 KiB | Viewed 2833 times ]
File comment: Power board removed, caps labeled manufacture date 2002
PSBoardBefore.jpg
PSBoardBefore.jpg [ 185.37 KiB | Viewed 2833 times ]
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 Post subject: power board
PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 2:05 pm 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
Amp module removed from chassis
-Recapped;
-Relay cleaned;
-Solder joints enforced...and all cleaned...


Attachments:
File comment: Before cleaning
AmpBoardBeforeClean.jpg
AmpBoardBeforeClean.jpg [ 161.21 KiB | Viewed 2759 times ]
File comment: Amp module removed...
AmpModule.jpg
AmpModule.jpg [ 184 KiB | Viewed 2759 times ]
File comment: Recapping...
Recapping.jpg
Recapping.jpg [ 188.28 KiB | Viewed 2759 times ]
File comment: Before cleaning, transistors' solder joints dirty flux residual
TransistorsBeforeCleaning.jpg
TransistorsBeforeCleaning.jpg [ 131.6 KiB | Viewed 2759 times ]
File comment: top side cleaning
AmpboardCleaning.jpg
AmpboardCleaning.jpg [ 202.32 KiB | Viewed 2759 times ]
File comment: Top side cleaned
AmpBoardShinning.jpg
AmpBoardShinning.jpg [ 157.52 KiB | Viewed 2759 times ]
File comment: Back side cleaned
TransistorsCleaned.jpg
TransistorsCleaned.jpg [ 193.24 KiB | Viewed 2759 times ]
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 Post subject: Other boards
PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 5:42 am 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
Recap the speaker protection board...only a few small caps.

No recap for input, tone, volume control...just cleaning, and re-solder the connectors


Attachments:
File comment: screws and parts organized into bags...
IMG_4070.jpg
IMG_4070.jpg [ 119.04 KiB | Viewed 2732 times ]
File comment: Speaker board recapped
IMG_4052.jpg
IMG_4052.jpg [ 164.77 KiB | Viewed 2732 times ]
File comment: Speaker protection board...cleaned and resoldered
IMG_4053.jpg
IMG_4053.jpg [ 147.15 KiB | Viewed 2732 times ]
File comment: Input board
IMG_4179.jpg
IMG_4179.jpg [ 168.91 KiB | Viewed 2732 times ]
File comment: One of the input boards
Input.jpg
Input.jpg [ 173.03 KiB | Viewed 2732 times ]
File comment: Tone board
Tone.jpg
Tone.jpg [ 208.03 KiB | Viewed 2732 times ]
File comment: Only transformer inside chassis now...
WhatsLeftInsideChassis.jpg
WhatsLeftInsideChassis.jpg [ 157.33 KiB | Viewed 2732 times ]
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 Post subject: put it back...
PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 7:26 am 
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-Put all back into chassis...restore the GND wires...
-Double check the wires connected correctly...
-Don't connect power to amp board yet, power on, check power supply correct...then turn off;
-Now, connect power to amp board...
-Power on, check DC output, bias...(don't adjust bias yet)
-DC output ok, then connect speaker and enjoy the music....
-After many hours (or days) ...new caps need break in and stabilized... then adjust bias as necessary


Done!


Attachments:
File comment: power board first..
IMG_4174.jpg
IMG_4174.jpg [ 147.42 KiB | Viewed 2712 times ]
IMG_4175.jpg
IMG_4175.jpg [ 188.09 KiB | Viewed 2712 times ]
IMG_4180.jpg
IMG_4180.jpg [ 187.89 KiB | Viewed 2712 times ]
File comment: input boards
IMG_4179.jpg
IMG_4179.jpg [ 168.91 KiB | Viewed 2712 times ]
File comment: almost done
IMG_4191.jpg
IMG_4191.jpg [ 192.54 KiB | Viewed 2712 times ]
File comment: All put inside...
IMG_4195.jpg
IMG_4195.jpg [ 168.11 KiB | Viewed 2712 times ]
BiasAdjustment.jpg
BiasAdjustment.jpg [ 207.27 KiB | Viewed 2712 times ]
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 Post subject: Calling for Marantz SR1*
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:20 pm 
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Posts: 294
Location: Toronto, ON, CA
Anyone owns one of Marantz SR19, 18, 17, 14?


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SR1x.jpg
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 4:30 pm 
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Location: Montreal, QC, CA
Nice job Frank, that amp should be good for many more years to come. After such an extensive rebuild, I wouldnt dream of bringing the amp back online without a dim bulb tester, you are a braver man than I :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 5:36 pm 
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Michael F wrote:
Nice job Frank, that amp should be good for many more years to come. After such an extensive rebuild, I wouldnt dream of bringing the amp back online without a dim bulb tester, you are a braver man than I :)


After some DIY projects, you know pretty much the tricks...and the more you have built, the more cautious you will become...I would not dare "brave" after all;-)

Point of this thread is - machines need maintenance to keep them in good working order, and for some machines, to prevent "unnecessary" disastrous things from happening...there is a reason I'm calling SR1*


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 5:20 pm 
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How bad an old relay can be...


Attachments:
old_relay.jpg
old_relay.jpg [ 91.7 KiB | Viewed 1944 times ]
cleaned.jpg
cleaned.jpg [ 118.44 KiB | Viewed 1944 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 3:19 am 
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Location: Fergus, ON, CA
Nice work Frank. Inspiring.
Now when you say "resoldered"...does that just mean "reflowed"?
For example...your 'Speaker board' pic.
I ask because I am contemplating tackling my Kenwood KA9100 this summer

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PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2017 6:22 pm 
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alexander_x wrote:
Nice work Frank. Inspiring.
Now when you say "resoldered"...does that just mean "reflowed"?
For example...your 'Speaker board' pic.
I ask because I am contemplating tackling my Kenwood KA9100 this summer


Have to be clear that the relay pictures above are not PM7000's, it from a very old Yamaha power relay...

Yeah, normally I use solder wick to remove the old solder clean, then solder ... not work "on top of it" ;-)

Necessary? It depends on which brand/model, and where...
-I found Marantz gears tends to have solder joint issue in some models...I have worked on many brands' old gears, I found Naim, Linn...those UK gears normally have very good solder quality.
-About where...places where suffer from heat, stress, such as connectors on PCB...as time goes, it will become a problem.

Below are some pics from a Marantz SR17 I'm working on trying to fix (I like Marantz SR1* AV amps, personally, I love their sound more than Denon 5805)...I went to visit a friend and he has a SR17 and he loves it, I told him that SR1* is tend to have solder joint issue and will cause amp blow up. I offered to help him do some maintenance ...but he did not take it serious...and now I'm working on fixing it...

Again, like we maintain our cars, some audiophile gears also need attention or it will die ;-(

Back to your machine, it might or might not need reflow...if their solder quality is good and you are not sure you can do better, then don't...

-----------
Disclaimer:-)
Hope I did not upset anyone...
I'm from an amateur perspective, even though I majored in EE back in university, current job is not relevant... I'm still a Marantz fan...most of my brand gears are Marantz.


Attachments:
bad_joint.jpg
bad_joint.jpg [ 87.49 KiB | Viewed 1849 times ]
Burned....jpg
Burned....jpg [ 270.71 KiB | Viewed 1849 times ]
resoldered.JPG
resoldered.JPG [ 108.03 KiB | Viewed 1849 times ]
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 11, 2017 10:37 pm 
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Frank Wang wrote:
alexander_x wrote:
Nice work Frank. Inspiring.
Now when you say "resoldered"...does that just mean "reflowed"?
For example...your 'Speaker board' pic.
I ask because I am contemplating tackling my Kenwood KA9100 this summer


Have to be clear that the relay pictures above are not PM7000's, it from a very old Yamaha power relay...

Yeah, normally I use solder wick to remove the old solder clean, then solder ... not work "on top of it" ;-)

Necessary? It depends on which brand/model, and where...
-I found Marantz gears tends to have solder joint issue in some models...I have worked on many brands' old gears, I found Naim, Linn...those UK gears normally have very good solder quality.
-About where...places where suffer from heat, stress, such as connectors on PCB...as time goes, it will become a problem.

Below are some pics from a Marantz SR17 I'm working on trying to fix (I like Marantz SR1* AV amps, personally, I love their sound more than Denon 5805)...I went to visit a friend and he has a SR17 and he loves it, I told him that SR1* is tend to have solder joint issue and will cause amp blow up. I offered to help him do some maintenance ...but he did not take it serious...and now I'm working on fixing it...

Again, like we maintain our cars, some audiophile gears also need attention or it will die ;-(

Back to your machine, it might or might not need reflow...if their solder quality is good and you are not sure you can do better, then don't...

-----------
Disclaimer:-)
Hope I did not upset anyone...
I'm from an amateur perspective, even though I majored in EE back in university, current job is not relevant... I'm still a Marantz fan...most of my brand gears are Marantz.


Outstanding detail with photos Frank, I have a PM7001 and it seems fine and will try to remember this rebuild just in case I try my first ever attempt on doing maintenance...once something quits working of course otherwise I may make it quit working by mistake :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 7:31 am 
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rocketampz wrote:
Outstanding detail with photos Frank, I have a PM7001 and it seems fine and will try to remember this rebuild just in case I try my first ever attempt on doing maintenance...once something quits working of course otherwise I may make it quit working by mistake :lol:


If you have DIY experience, doing a task like this is easy - "make it quit" never came to my mind...just need patient and be careful. Follow or create your own practice, such as bag and label screws and small parts, using the stuffs right for you such as solder wick...take a lot of photos to keep track of the parts and wires - this works well for me as I normally clean/wash the boards and this process could take days, and I don't have a good memory...

This kind of maintenance does need DIY experience and some knowledge...you can build up the skills playing some already dead or "doesn't matter" gears...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 8:42 am 
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Frank Wang wrote:
How bad an old relay can be...


(regarding cleaning relay contacts and leaving a smooth clean 'still plated!' surface behind)

Canadian tire now has a regular line of 4x 11"x8.5" sheets of 2000 grit sandpaper, in the automotive painting section. Decent quality 3m product, best price around, available in 500 locations, or thereabouts. FYI for all interested, kinda thing. Probably in their automotive 'Parts Source' stores as well.

(Ultra fine grit is best for relay and switch contact jobs. Critical, actually)

-- 12 Jun 2017 12:50 --

alexander_x wrote:
Nice work Frank. Inspiring.
Now when you say "resoldered"...does that just mean "reflowed"?
For example...your 'Speaker board' pic.
I ask because I am contemplating tackling my Kenwood KA9100 this summer



I tend to reflow with new solder, then use a solder pump to clean it out, then get to the re-soldering. I've almost exclusively used a solder pump for 30 plus years, and I even have two desoldering stations. I don't use either one of them, as they clog up and need maintenance. I just reach for the solder pump and it works every time. The solder pump needs cleaning but it is ultimately more reliable and less time consuming, IMO.

The desoldering stations are more there for some critical stuff that might come along, where things are a bit more stubborn than what a solder pump can deal with. Which is very rare, once you master the use of a solder pump.

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