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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 10:22 am 
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Location: hawkesbury, ON, CA
i acquire a pair of Wilson audio witt 2 lately. one of the tweeter was not playing. the previous owner told me it might be those resistor under the panel under the speaker??? so sure enough I check and indeed the resistor was dead .I temporary used regular ceramic type of resistors until I could get the same kind of resistors. they use caddock thick film resistors. they are +/- 1 % tolerance. and they have the property to be used as fuse, in case of overpower
so I ordered 2 for replacing . ounce I receive them ,I proceed to replace the faulty one on the tweeter. and decide to check the other speaker also. sure enough the other tweeter add already bin replace with regular ceramic resistor 10 %. so I replace that one also with that spare resistor that I bought. so I dicide to check them all with my ohm meter. surprise 4 other resistors where also dead. he replace the mid range with 4 resistors insteed of one . 2 in serie, in parallel with 2 other in serie. same values in ohm but double the power. those on the mid must have went dead since I bought the speaker.because both mid where ok. so I took the ones that where good and used it like company do . one resistors, not 4
I play it loud about 200 watt for about 2 hours making sure I did not clip the amp.. and sure enough after I check again resistor went dead again.
so I ordered all mil spec resistors +/- 2% from solen. and I will replace all those resitors.
I cannot believe a company like Wilson who have a good reputation in the industry would be dum enough to install those resistor (FUSE) under the speaker????? there finish (paint)is very nice but imagine aving to flip those 220 pounds speaker upside down everytime you have to change those resistors, that cost by the way $26 at dealer and $2 on ebay.

nice aftersale maintenance??? and labour fees.
really. that is why they never talk of how much power can these speaker handle. o know that focal 13 inches is capable of at less 600 to 800 watt. but dum dum used fuse that don t handle more then a quarter of that power.

I hate when company try to use circuit breaker , fuse, or any type of protection circuit on there driver. they all trip well before top power get reached.and most of them fail at protecting anything .eccept cost you money, and stop you from enjoying those speaker at there fullest of capability.

is there a big sonic difference between those 2 type of resistor. I know one is 1 % and the other 2%but other then that , I don't expect much of a difference. at less I want have to flip those over a few time a year, and in the process scratch that nice finish.
sonicly I find them good but not top notch performer. first the bass is diging real deep , wich is nice, but not as articulate as my dynaudio. also lead guitar, is again not as involving as my dynaudio. but the rest is smooth to the ears.
I will see when all resistors replace if it sound different.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:25 pm 
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I have replace all the resistors in my witt 2 with AOC mill spec resistors, and now I can say they sound good, and now, I know I will not have to flip them upside down anymore to replace those blown resistors fuses ANYMORE.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 6:43 pm 
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interesting...thanks for sharing this info! I hope the speakers will do it for you....


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 4:44 am 
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yes I hope they will grow on me. at first I was not impressed. but now with all those blown resistors replaced, they do sound much better. but I am still not impresse with WHERE they locate those resistors, and why use these resistors. I want to tell anybody that have Wilson audio speaker. you should really check those resistors with multi meter. to make sure they don t have any resistors blown.
because those resistors when blown , don t necessarelly mean you will have a driver not working. they also (when blown) will change the xover point, and frequency response.
at first the bass was boomy, and not articulate. snare drum sounded awfull. and so was electric guitar, sounded thin.
those speaker have good sounds, but those fuses,when blown, will drasticly change the overall balance of the sound.
I don t know if they still use these resistors. but I do encourage anybody that find any blown resistors, to use aoc resistors insteed of those cadock resistors. a friend of mine have the same speaker, and we will checkthem to. and I am sure he will also have some blown ones. those resistors, blow with rise of temperature and not power.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 7:55 am 
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Location: Markham, ON, CA
Why dont you contact Wilson Audio to resolve your issues first before posting such negative comment! ruin a company reputation is easy, building one up take long time!!
you purchased a pair of old...... speakers, who know the history of those speakers, may be modified; may be abused.
BTW, we are not their dealer or related!!!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 8:48 am 
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I can't believe you are still using the speakers after finding blown resistors without figuring out what is actually wrong.
You must have much more money than I.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 8:52 am 
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zon001 wrote:
yes I hope they will grow on me. at first I was not impressed.


They may never grow on you. IMO the WITT is a bit of an odd duck compared to other models. I'm guessing that's why you see them sell for dirt cheap sometimes.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 5:42 pm 
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I did right to the company. and they told me to contact a nearest dealer to get the part.but those part I can have for $2 on ebay and they want $26 each. and like you can see on photo, those resistors have pretty much been replace many times before.even the previous owner told me he just got them fixed from dealer at a cost of $350
and I did replace some. and after 2 hours running at around 200 watts , I check them back to find some more dead resistors. and I made sure not to clip the amp during that test. I am not saying those speaker are no good, I am saying that this is a flaw. and it should be corrected. just like I did at a cost of $85 . I changed them ALL. now no more problem.
I add a few speaker that used protection circuit like this. kef, b/w, yorkville , and none where any good. they all triped way before reaching rated power. many people buypass those protection circuit. and I do understand them very well why
and if the company was dum enough to locate them under there 220 pound cabinet.well they will not win any engeneering award for that matter.

-- 09 Nov 2016 01:46 --

kcross wrote:
I can't believe you are still using the speakers after finding blown resistors without figuring out what is actually wrong.
You must have much more money than I.

it only cost me $85 to replace all resistors with better quality resistors, that don t blow everytime I crank it up.
far cheaper than sending it to the dealer don t you think.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 5:55 pm 
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I think that resistors don't just blow for no reason, nor does this happen to most Wilson speakers.
I would be very worried that there was another defect that is causing the trouble either in the speakers or your amplifier, one that has the potential to damage more expensive components like drivers.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 6:56 pm 
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I have been using this class A amplifier for over 8 years, with my dynaudio with absolutly no problem, never ever blown any drivers or tweeters . so I know that amp is in perfect working condition.and I know its potential.
the previous owner also ad a class A amplifier to drive them. and looking at those resistors. I am sure he replace them all . because those are NOT factory welding.
I have downloaded the owners manual. there is no mentioning of those resistors. they don t even gave any specification for frequency response. or rms power handling capacity. they wright a big essay on where to installed them, about 30 pages. and when looking at troubleshooting tips. no where is it mention, to check those fuses(resistors)in case of driver failure.
so anybody that is not familiar with speaker repair ,and hear a driver not playing, will just bring is speaker back to the dealer, 220 pounds. so they can replace those resistors, and charge you a ton of cash to fixe them. just like the previous owner $350. and one more thing that don t last very long on these, is felt like insulation they use to cover front baffle., for driver resonance.it disintegrate after about twelve years. and cost $450 to replace. mine are done. and my friend that owns the same speaker also as the same problems.
too me those flaws should not exist on a $12000 us paire of speakers.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 7:10 pm 
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I see you bought these $1500 WITT 2's http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/ ... on-witt-2/

Is there any history on ownership and care that was taken with the speakers? it shouldn't come as a surprise that the foam breaks down over time. I wouldn't be complaining too much if I got them for dirt cheap. Heck at that price I'd expect some work would be required.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 08, 2016 8:34 pm 
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he was the original owner. and his wife could not stand them anymore. she wanted them OUT.
he bought some new smaller sonus faber. I am sure these don t use any protection circuit.
I add castle that usec a fuse on tweeters. always blown . I buypass them fuses. put a scan speak woofer capable of handling 3 time more power. absolutely no problem. and it NOW handles 150 watt .
I add kef 105.4 same thing protection circuit was always triping. those used a spring leaf type of braker.on all drivers.
I bend back that spring to give more tension. no more problem.
bought some 105 same thing . fuse was rusted, as with the fuse older. tweeter was distorting. clean them up an gone was the distorsion. but also they add a protection circuit in the x over. well those were triping at about 130 watt. they were rated at 200 watt. I have read most user buy pass that circuit.
also my B/W 801 power handling 600 watt, and some years where advertised to handle unlimited power.well these actually start acting at about 300 watt. come back after a few second, but keep triping after ward every time you crank back the power.
so to me those are not improving sound, and i can even say in some case the opposite. and many need servicing after a while.
I rather not have any of these protection circuit in the signal path.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2016 4:42 am 
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Location: GTA, ON, CA
zon001 wrote:
he was the original owner. and his wife could not stand them anymore. she wanted them OUT.
he bought some new smaller sonus faber. I am sure these don t use any protection circuit.
I add castle that usec a fuse on tweeters. always blown . I buypass them fuses. put a scan speak woofer capable of handling 3 time more power. absolutely no problem. and it NOW handles 150 watt .
I add kef 105.4 same thing protection circuit was always triping. those used a spring leaf type of braker.on all drivers.
I bend back that spring to give more tension. no more problem.
bought some 105 same thing . fuse was rusted, as with the fuse older. tweeter was distorting. clean them up an gone was the distorsion. but also they add a protection circuit in the x over. well those were triping at about 130 watt. they were rated at 200 watt. I have read most user buy pass that circuit.
also my B/W 801 power handling 600 watt, and some years where advertised to handle unlimited power.well these actually start acting at about 300 watt. come back after a few second, but keep triping after ward every time you crank back the power.
so to me those are not improving sound, and i can even say in some case the opposite. and many need servicing after a while.
I rather not have any of these protection circuit in the signal path.



Have you considered getting some large, high efficiency speakers that will give you the SPL level of sound you want without being stressed (ie. driver excursion)?

K-Horns (I own some) and Altec 604's come to mind.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2016 4:54 am 
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What amplifier are you using? Must be a brute.
Class A at 200 watts for 2 hours, not the most efficient way to heat a room


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2016 7:51 am 
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kvn63 wrote:
What amplifier are you using? Must be a brute.
Class A at 200 watts for 2 hours, not the most efficient way to heat a room

it is a 5.1 set up with krell ksa 200+ksa 150+ksl 100+classe ca100, the ksa 200 are said to produce 365 watt per channel at 8 ohm before clipping.

-- 09 Nov 2016 15:59 --

Greg_567 wrote:
zon001 wrote:
he was the original owner. and his wife could not stand them anymore. she wanted them OUT.
he bought some new smaller sonus faber. I am sure these don t use any protection circuit.
I add castle that usec a fuse on tweeters. always blown . I buypass them fuses. put a scan speak woofer capable of handling 3 time more power. absolutely no problem. and it NOW handles 150 watt .
I add kef 105.4 same thing protection circuit was always triping. those used a spring leaf type of braker.on all drivers.
I bend back that spring to give more tension. no more problem.
bought some 105 same thing . fuse was rusted, as with the fuse older. tweeter was distorting. clean them up an gone was the distorsion. but also they add a protection circuit in the x over. well those were triping at about 130 watt. they were rated at 200 watt. I have read most user buy pass that circuit.
also my B/W 801 power handling 600 watt, and some years where advertised to handle unlimited power.well these actually start acting at about 300 watt. come back after a few second, but keep triping after ward every time you crank back the power.
so to me those are not improving sound, and i can even say in some case the opposite. and many need servicing after a while.
I rather not have any of these protection circuit in the signal path.



Have you considered getting some large, high efficiency speakers that will give you the SPL level of sound you want without being stressed (ie. driver excursion)?

K-Horns (I own some) and Altec 604's come to mind.

that set up is in my living room. so space is a matter to keep in mind. I have 4 set up 2 x 2 channel , 1 x 5.1 and a 7.2 over 5000 watt downstairs. the one downstair is for real concert level and experience. reaching well over 120D/B and going down to around 16 hz. that one really rock.
the Wilson set up is for everyday listening but still want it to reach at less 110 D/B that is my confort zone.


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