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 Post subject: Diy tower speaker advise
PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 10:05 am 
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Location: bowmanville, ON, CA
I was thinking of building a set of towers as a method to kill time. I was thinking about using all hivi reasearch drivers and hivi ribbon tweets or possibly vifa ring radiators.

My main concern is the crossovers. My room is roughly 15x25. I would like to use 2 midbass and a single midrange driver. What formula would i use to figure out what components i need for the xovers? I believe that the cabinet size and room size are relevant to the equation right?

I hope someone can help me with this. It'll be my first time designing a passive xover and im not 100% sure where to start.
Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 10:15 am 
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Location: Victoria, BC, CA
Solen.ca will help you design crossovers if you buy the components off them.
There are also various programs to help with the design.

Have you considered an active crossover though?


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 10:17 am 
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Location: Vernon, BC, CA
BKSRT8 wrote:
I hope someone can help me with this. It'll be my first time designing a passive xover and im not 100% sure where to start.
Thanks in advance.

Have you thought of using a kit?
Much easier as someone has done all the math for you.

Otherwise you can contact http://www.solen.ca and they can recommend a crossover, supply the parts and even make it for you. As wll they have all the parts you will need (drivers, termials, feet etc). (posted same time as KCros)

I also use
http://www.creativesound.ca (located in BC) as they have great kits and parts.


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 10:18 am 
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Location: near PETERBOROUGH, ON, CA
this may help you,,
https://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?cata ... earch+Kits

Deal with Chris at Solen. He could help you if you want to tweak the driver selection.


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 12:23 pm 
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Location: bowmanville, ON, CA
Ok thanks. I was going to use solen for my drivers anyway so that should make things easier


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 3:05 pm 
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Location: New Westminster, BC, CA
The right way to do this is to measure the drivers in free air first to determine Fs, Qts and Vas. WT3 and DATS work for this. Although manufacturers supply specs, some can be unreliable. For example, the HiVi M8A typically measures out with a Qts around .6, rather than .43 as listed. Can make a large difference in the type and size of cabinet required. Most of the drivers I've measured have been close to specs. You can model the cabinet/ports in software like WinISD or others but they often don't take the room into account. Then, you can build a cabinet, although it does not have to be finished for the next step, which is installing the drivers and measuring them individually and determining acoustic centers. I use OmniMic but there's lots of options. In most cases you will want to extract minimum phase before crossover simulation in programs like PCD7, WinPCD or XSim. Then there's a steep learning curve where you get to learn terms like diffraction, baffle step, Zobels, phase ...

Or just get a proven kit.

Did I mention the table saw, miter saw, plunge router, bits and a large selection of clamps? Or how about the endless sanding, painting, more sanding, more painting, buffing? And, BTW, it's an addictive hobby so it's almost never just one pair. I think they put something in the MDF.

"Kill time", not likely. If you want to start a hobby that will eventually lead to a set of skills and something rewarding to be proud of, okay.


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 3:26 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, CA
Suggest you look at Troels Graveson's website

http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudsp ... ojects.htm


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 5:17 pm 
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Location: bowmanville, ON, CA
Jesus, i think ill just have solen build xovers for me lol. Ill order the drivers and build the cabinets....thats enough fun for me lol.

Now what about active xovers? I thought that was more of a car audio deal...i have had several in my cars over the years...never in home audio.


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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 7:22 pm 
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Location: Lasalle, ON, CA
BKSRT8 wrote:
Jesus, i think ill just have solen build xovers for me lol. Ill order the drivers and build the cabinets....thats enough fun for me lol.

Now what about active xovers? I thought that was more of a car audio deal...i have had several in my cars over the years...never in home audio.

Think about trying a full range (wide range) design first. That's what I'm doing. :)

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PostPosted: Fri May 15, 2015 8:44 pm 
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That was actually another idea i had. I thought about buying a pair of Mark audio full range drivers. Not sure about it tho


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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 2:49 am 
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BKSRT8 wrote:
That was actually another idea i had. I thought about buying a pair of Mark audio full range drivers. Not sure about it tho

There's a fun anonymous 'shoot out' of various full range drivers going on at DIY Audio right now, one of which is an Alpair 7. You might try working with one of the 'popular' choices to build a cabinet around. The results of the vote will be revealed on Sunday. You can find the thread in the "Full Range" forum.

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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 3:24 am 
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Oh ok, ill check that out for sure. Is there no xover required at all on a full range? There must be a low pass right? Its not likely gonna play below 50hz with any authority if its playing well above 3khz. Ive always been curious about fullrange. It just seems too tall a task for a single driver. But in an ideal world fullrange should be the ultimate soundstage.


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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 3:39 am 
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BKSRT8 wrote:
Oh ok, ill check that out for sure. Is there no xover required at all on a full range? There must be a low pass right? Its not likely gonna play below 50hz with any authority if its playing well above 3khz. Ive always been curious about fullrange. It just seems too tall a task for a single driver. But in an ideal world fullrange should be the ultimate soundstage.

You'll find mixed views on that. Some seem to think a crossover of some sort is needed, but most seem to just use them 'as is'. One option that seems to be getting more traction is what most people call a FAST system, i.e. a full range driver supplemented by a woofer for the lower bass range. Others rely on cabinet design to supplement the bass. Then again, you could also just used a separate subwoofer if you find the bass lacking (which is what many people with two-way stand mounts seem to do anyway).

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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 4:09 am 
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Location: Saskatoon, SK, CA
Guys

Build a pair of FH3's...

http://www.frugal-horn.com/FH3.html

You can even get flatpacks...assembly only required...

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-1 ... ost4311226

If you want a more "hi-fi" sound...use a Mark Audio A7...if you want a more "jazzy vocal sound" use a Fostex FF105Wk...or use whatever you want...lots of other Mark or Fostex or Tang Bang or...

Personally using a Fostex FE108E Sigma in mine...a sub coming in at about 100hz to compliment the bottom end...

Enjoy!!!


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PostPosted: Sat May 16, 2015 4:36 am 
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Location: Newmarket, ON, CA
for a first build l'd I definitely recommend using a pre-established design. There are so many factors involved in designing a crossover, you need a lot of knowledge and measurement equipment to do it properly and avoid disappointment.

http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdispl ... complished!
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudsp ... ojects.htm
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/
etc


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