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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 12:29 pm 
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Location: mallorytown, ON, CA
i read the link...ow ow ow...what the heck did all that mean...I think I need two tylenol and some Miles Davis...ground the receiver and not the driver or is it stick a copper spike in the ground but it doesn't ground only the lightening does that and don't stick a fork into the receptacle or do I drive the fork into the ground and put the wood to the golf bag...man, i am no genius, less smart now and lost 10 minutes of my life reading that article - ok looking at the pictures... :mrgreen:
but hey, the best advice is to get a professional electrician to deal with wiring issues around the house, the rest of us should stick to audio discussions... :D

george


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 1:02 pm 
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kraut wrote:
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I second that "Great Document" but when do the smarts kick in


If after reading this document you accidentally should connect your finger to the "hot" in your wall outlet.


Now I feel more "grounded" after reading this document. I live in an apartment building and have no control over how well grounded my outlets are. However, I never blow fuses and no shocks or equipment damage of any kind so I guess it's ok. No hum or ground issues are evident either.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:28 am 
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One way to check if you have a ground at the receptacle is to use a multi-meter. First, with the dial set to 220V volt, touch the meter leads to the hot wire and the metal box and see if you have a full voltage reading. Second, with the meter set to continuity, check if you have continuity between the white wire (neutral) and the metal box. If both read positive, then you have a grounded system and running a ground (min. 14 AWG) from the box to the receptacle is all you need.

If you don't have any readings then I would, as a minimum, install a GFCI receptacle. If installed properly, a GFCI receptacle will protect all the downstream plugs.

If your unsure about any of the above, I would recommend hiring a qualified electrician. Hope this helps.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:11 am 
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You could always use a receptacle tester, much easier...

http://www.tequipment.net/Ideal61-035.asp

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 1:00 pm 
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Location: New Westminster, BC, CA
Lot of good advice here.

The crux of it all is that the ground in your home is a safety ground. Never in my darkest fantasy do I ever want to see audio equipment referenced to ground - it would be a nightmare! You see, in some "industrial" applications, even with floating power, grounding can become a major issue. Both the presence of "leaks" to ground and the implementation of the grounding scheme ($). If you think a bespoke cable is crazy, you should see what happens to blast away the bad ground gremlins!

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:55 pm 
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I have my plasma tv hooked up to the power conditioner along with all the other 2 channel audio gear. I had to float the tv with a cheater plug to remove the noise it was causing to the audio. Now the system is very quiet and the tv picture is cleaner sharper and more focussed. This must be a common problem as I've seen it in a couple different homes..


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:38 am 
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keshiri wrote:
I have my plasma tv hooked up to the power conditioner along with all the other 2 channel audio gear. I had to float the tv with a cheater plug to remove the noise it was causing to the audio. Now the system is very quiet and the tv picture is cleaner sharper and more focussed. This must be a common problem as I've seen it in a couple different homes..


That is because your cable feed is improperly grounded; the vast majority of them are. By floating/cheating the ground on your TV you have just bypassed all the protection from your power conditioner.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 7:46 am 
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OBI56 wrote:
keshiri wrote:
I have my plasma tv hooked up to the power conditioner along with all the other 2 channel audio gear. I had to float the tv with a cheater plug to remove the noise it was causing to the audio. Now the system is very quiet and the tv picture is cleaner sharper and more focussed. This must be a common problem as I've seen it in a couple different homes..


That is because your cable feed is improperly grounded; the vast majority of them are. By floating/cheating the ground on your TV you have just bypassed all the protection from your power conditioner.


When I had Rogers cable hooked up to my system, I was getting a loud hum coming from speakers because their cable was not properly grounded (and they wouldn't fix it either). I eliminated this hum by installing a small device (in the coax cable line) called Jensen Ground Isolator upon much researching. I don't believe the new Bell Fibe TV has this problem... But on top of this, there was a slight buzzing noise when I turned on my tube pre. This went away when I floated the tv. Are you saying my whole system is in jeopardy because I floated the tv at the power conditioner?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:05 am 
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keshiri wrote:
OBI56 wrote:
keshiri wrote:
I have my plasma tv hooked up to the power conditioner along with all the other 2 channel audio gear. I had to float the tv with a cheater plug to remove the noise it was causing to the audio. Now the system is very quiet and the tv picture is cleaner sharper and more focussed. This must be a common problem as I've seen it in a couple different homes..


That is because your cable feed is improperly grounded; the vast majority of them are. By floating/cheating the ground on your TV you have just bypassed all the protection from your power conditioner.


When I had Rogers cable hooked up to my system, I was getting a loud hum coming from speakers because their cable was not properly grounded (and they wouldn't fix it either). I eliminated this hum by installing a small device (in the coax cable line) called Jensen Ground Isolator upon much researching. I don't believe the new Bell Fibe TV has this problem... But on top of this, there was a slight buzzing noise when I turned on my tube pre. This went away when I floated the tv. Are you saying my whole system is in jeopardy because I floated the tv at the power conditioner?


The ground isolator breaks the path to your system created by floating the TV. When you float the TV from the power conditioner, you created a new path for surges and interference to get into your system that the power conditioner was protecting you from. Basically, you were bypassing the power conditioner's protection through the improperly grounded cable TV cable line. The usual way of preventing this is to run ALL electrical, phone and cable TV connections through your power conditioner. If your power conditioner does not have phone and cable protection circuits, it is not appropriate for a HT or music server system that has a connection to either the phone line (internet) or cable TV line, but is better suited to a regular stereo system.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:04 am 
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Thank you OBI56 for all these infos. I'm no longer with Rogers cable so I no longer use ground isolator, but I still do float my tv at the power conditioner to rid the buzzing. I've had many other components that don't have ground pins in their power cords, including turntables, phono pres, dvd players, satellite receivers... does this mean that they are all in danger no matter if they're plugged into power conditioners that are supposed to protect them?


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:15 pm 
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keshiri wrote:
Thank you OBI56 for all these infos. I'm no longer with Rogers cable so I no longer use ground isolator, but I still do float my tv at the power conditioner to rid the buzzing. I've had many other components that don't have ground pins in their power cords, including turntables, phono pres, dvd players, satellite receivers... does this mean that they are all in danger no matter if they're plugged into power conditioners that are supposed to protect them?


The physical cable connection is the problem, not the floating of the TV. If there is no improperly grounded cable connected to your equipment, then there is no path for anything to bypass the grounding and protection of the power conditioner. No path, no problem.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:29 am 
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Lots of older homes, mine included have an ungrounded electrical system. Do not be fooled into thinking that the presence of a ground pin indicates a grounded system, lots of DIY's just replace the 2 pin receptacle with a three pin receptacle !! Most building supply centres sell a plug in receptacle tester for around ten dollars & this will tell you if the outlet is grounded as well as indicating whether the polarity is correct. I have ran across quite a few home owner installs with the hot & neutral reversed.

Jeff


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:46 am 
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gurru991 wrote:
Lots of older homes, mine included have an ungrounded electrical system. Do not be fooled into thinking that the presence of a ground pin indicates a grounded system, lots of DIY's just replace the 2 pin receptacle with a three pin receptacle !! Most building supply centres sell a plug in receptacle tester for around ten dollars & this will tell you if the outlet is grounded as well as indicating whether the polarity is correct. I have ran across quite a few home owner installs with the hot & neutral reversed.

Jeff


+ 1

Check to see if the 14/2 coming in the outlet box actually has a ground wire.
Sometimes in 1950's houses, there was a ground wire - but with a 2 pin receptacle the ground wire was never connected.

If this is the case - you are in luck and simply connect the ground wire to a 3 pin receptacle.
You'll need to do this for ALL the receptacles on that line.

Also, in the 1950's there was typically a 60 Amp service.
So outlets were usually daisy chained - a whole string of outlets connected to one 15 Amp fuse.
If a relatively new break has been installed, consider rewiring some of the daisy chained outlets.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 5:00 am 
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Actually just had cable guy out here and told them, lack of grounding..it wasn't period to the hydro grounding area.
They actually ran cable ground to meter head no questions about it.

-- 11 Dec 2014 08:05 --

gurru991 wrote:
Lots of older homes, mine included have an ungrounded electrical system. Do not be fooled into thinking that the presence of a ground pin indicates a grounded system, lots of DIY's just replace the 2 pin receptacle with a three pin receptacle !! Most building supply centres sell a plug in receptacle tester for around ten dollars & this will tell you if the outlet is grounded as well as indicating whether the polarity is correct. I have ran across quite a few home owner installs with the hot & neutral reversed.

Jeff



yes you see this quite a bit actually in middle upper 60's era places.
Couple friends have had this with the older green 14/2 romex to metal boxes, push in rear terminal receptacles (member those)ugh, yet no grounded receptacles, thou box even had ground screw provision and was grounded.
They had a proper grounded panel in, may have been replaced by looks of them.
For them they just had to get appropriate receptacles and a piece of proper wire for ground to box, test and away they go.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2014 8:06 am 
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I would strongly advise you to get an electrician to wire your AC outlet dedicated to your hifi system - with a single stretch of gauge 12 wire DIRECTLY to your electric pannel. If possible - put it on a separate breaker.
Lack of proper grounding sometimes leads to low level hum due to "ground loops". I experienced it myself. It disappeared after I had rewired the circuits.


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