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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 5:34 pm 
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Location: Moncton, NB, CA
Hi
I just built four 6 ft rigid fiberglass insulation tubes (used for insulating 12"diameter pipes) going to seal them at both ends. Before I do i was wondering If I should fill the inside of the tubes with fiberglass insulation or leave them hollow.. each tube has an inside diameter of 12" and outside close to 15"...
thanks in advance:)
Mike


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 5:51 pm 
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Location: GVRD, BC, CA
Let me guess, you live alone.

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 Post subject: yup!:)
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 6:02 pm 
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yes i live alone:) I am building a sound room in the basement, so even if i wasn't living alone i think she would still let me do it:) My house, she wouldn't have a say in the matter anyway:) hehe


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 6:15 pm 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
check this out, it should help with your question... JohnnyP.

http://www.teresaudio.com/haven/traps/traps.html


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:37 pm 
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Location: Dundas, ON, CA
Hey Mike,

This form of bass trap is left empty. Adding additional damping material actually degrades performance. Make sure you accomplish a completely air tight join where the tubes were slit along their sides, where the pair of tubes join, and at their end caps.

What sort of glue did you end up using and how are you capping the ends? Which fiberglass supplier did you use?

Oops, just saw your PM- If your tubes have a foil lined paper skin, you want to carefully cut then remove it on 1/2 of the trap's diameter over the traps full length. This will leave one side bare for full range absorption and one side a curved reflective diffuser just like ASC's real Tubetrap line. Use a razor knife 180 degree opposite the slit side of the tube and very carefully cut through only the paper/foil skin from top to bottom. Peel the one side of the tube very gently to avoid pulling off clumps of the fiberglass tube surface. I found it easiest to begin removing the paper from my cut finishing at the slit as this put no strain on the glue joint in the slit.

For better diffusion performance still, completely skin the trap and then make the diffuser/reflector from thick plastic drop sheet material. The thicker plastic skin on the reflector/diffuser side will work further down into the midrange than the paper/foil skin.

Happy Trails!
Vince@Freewheelcycle.com

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 Post subject: Thanks MTB Vince
PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:02 pm 
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Location: Moncton, NB, CA
Hi MTB Vince


I used a construction glue called Bulldog or something like that, it did make a very strong joint, I glued all seams with this . Top and bottom I used a thin plastic membrane glued it down as well them i cut proper sized covers out of ceiling tile type particle board. glued these pieces down.. i also left the outside material on that comes with the tubes.

It has an outside paper type layer with an inside metal foil type material.. the link below shows the exact type of tubes i used. I wonder if i should remove the outer material?

I already have other type traps around the room to help with mid and high frequency, this outer foil layer didn't seem to hurt my mid and high frequencies. I did notice some improvement in the bass, but I like to get it a bit better. probably need more traps eh?

I also read that sonatube (used for concrete forms) can be used for building bass traps.
have you had experience with these.
thanks
Mike
http://www.teresaudio.com/haven/traps/traps.html


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 9:32 pm 
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Hey Mike,

Read the second (edited and added subsequently) part of my last post carefully. If you don't cut away the paper and foil on at least one side of your traps then I suspect that the total air seal may reduce the trap's effectiveness.

In answer to your second question, nope, I've not fooled around with stuffed sonotube absorbers.

Happy Trails!
Vince@Freewheelcycle.com

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 Post subject: Thanks MTB Vince
PostPosted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 4:18 am 
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Location: Moncton, NB, CA
Ok thanks,
I will remove half of the covering for now, see how that works. I probably will remove all of it and add the plastic to half like you mentioned later..

What would I do without the Internet :shock:


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 4:25 pm 
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I know this is more than 2 years old, but, has any tried this? Can you post your impressions please?

I have somewhat limited corner space (addressed in bass trap thread) and would like to know if this is a good alternative.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 4:47 pm 
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Yes, I tried this. Started with empty, hollow tubes, which worked well but the tried taking the tubes and opening them up. Mine wre without the foil wrapping. I took steel wool and used that as a center fill, wrapped in pink fibreglass insulation inside of the original tube. Stuck it all together with wrapping tape. Same dimensions as the OP's. Frankly, I found that the mods I tried worked a lot better.
In theory, bass sound waves will encounter the steel wool and cause vibration that convert the energy from sonic to kinetic (i.e. from from sound to heat) and hence, subdue bass waves. This is an approach I developed from UHF's articles (Paul Bergman) from years ago.
Could be entirely psycho-accoustic - what do I know?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:04 pm 
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Well, if I am thinking of building these , then there should be some psycho-acoustic.

Thanks for your input, it is another thing to consider and read about. Would you happen t have a link to the article if it is available, if not that's cool, I will look and see.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:07 pm 
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Location: Dundas, ON, CA
Yes, DIY TubeTraps built with large diameter preformed fiberglass insulation tubes will function pretty much identically to the commercial ASC Tube Trap they are based upon. However, if portability isn't a concern, the DIY StudioTips Superchunk corners absorbers are a more efficient and substantially cheaper way to achieve efficient, effective bass traps. The efficiency advantage comes from the Superchunk occupying the entire volume of the room corner rather than being a freestanding cylinder resting near the corner. Also, if aesthetics are at all a concern, the Superchunks are much less visible than Tube Traps and much easier to achieve a professionally finished looking appearance when DIYing.

Happy Trails!
MTB Vince

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