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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 11:13 am 
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Location: Niagara Region, ON, CA
Hi;
Looking to soundproof my 12 foot x 24 foot rec-room ceilng. Gonna use Roxul Safe n Sound insulation, but what kind of drywall?. I was looking into Quietrock drywall sheets ,but not sure of any Canadian dealers( I contacted them). Anything else available in Canada ( Home Depot,etc?)Thanks,Keith


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 12:22 pm 
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Location: London, ON, CA
Huck wrote:
Hi;
Looking to soundproof my 12 foot x 24 foot rec-room ceilng. Gonna use Roxul Safe n Sound insulation, but what kind of drywall?. I was looking into Quietrock drywall sheets ,but not sure of any Canadian dealers( I contacted them). Anything else available in Canada ( Home Depot,etc?)Thanks,Keith


Hi Keith:
What I did was use steel resiliant channel strapped across the ceiling joists, then insulated with Roxul, then drywalled trying not to drill drywall screws into the wooden ceiling joists: in effect a "hanging" ceiling. Don't know about soundproofing, but it did help quite a bit. I used regular 1/2" drywall, not sure about the cost difference vs benefit?

PJ

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 12:35 pm 
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Location: Calgary, AB, CA
Check out this material as a substitute for channels and screws. We have used it on projects where street noise was an issue and it has worked well. Drywall sheets designed for sound isolation work very well but there is a significant cost upgrade from the green glue.

http://www.greengluecompany.com/


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 2:12 pm 
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Huck, why do you only want to soundproof your ceiling? To prevent sound from reaching the floor above? If so, you might reduce some of the sound, but to be really effective you need to deal with the room as a whole or your efforts might not have been worth the trouble. Sound escapes from a room through all sorts of places including small gaps and cracks in walls, around doors, windows and electrical fixtures, ventilation conducts and around the junctions of the walls and ceiling. Attention to these seemingly small details can result in much more effective soundproofing than just your choice of materials.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 2:39 pm 
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Location: Niagara Region, ON, CA
Thanks all for the comments! I mainly want to soundproof "my" listening area from the wife's t.v. area directly above mine, as she is not into music as much as me,so I want to be able to listen at the volume I want,so she is not complaining too much! Thanks,Keith


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 2:44 pm 
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Location: Ontario, ON, CA
Hi Keith,

I also used resiliant channelling with 5/8's drywall and 3 layers of Roxal safe and sound in the ceiling. You can't hear a thing upstairs even playing movies up loud. By the way, I have around 18 peices of resiliant channelling left over which I would give to you for free if you are interested. Just give me a pm if you want them. I used caulking on all drywall jointds before mud and taping and anwhere sound could escape.

There is a dealer in Kingston that has to special order the quiet rock and it cost a lot. You could always double up on the drywall, or add the green glue also. I think if you did the 3 layers of roxal, 5/8's drywall and resiliant channelling you would be more than plkeased.

Cheers, Greg


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:08 pm 
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http://www.supressproducts.com/products/ is more reasonable in price


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:18 pm 
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Find CAM member 'Stereoitis" - Nobody in this part of the world knows more about sound-proofing a room than he does. We've had a number of long discussions about that exact subject and he's built more than a few soundrooms (including for some commercial high-end audio dealers)!!!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 3:54 pm 
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Thanks! Keith


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:07 pm 
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Location: Newmarket, ON, CA
Great thread - I'm starting construction soon on my basement listening room too! (and want to soundproof as much as possible)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:11 pm 
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Soundemon, Check out http://www.acoustics101.com


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 4:26 pm 
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Location: Repentigny, QC, CA
Hi, i did all of the soundproofing using Roxul bethween the joist, sonopan, then gryprock sheet.
Mainly my hifi room is just below my wife TV room, like you.
The main mistake is: ventillation.
I have a round 6 in. fresh air output from heat exchanger that comminucates with both rooms, damm.......
So much efforts for that stupid mistake.....
Anyway i'm not a monitoring studio, i lowerred my SPL , that's all.
I could trim the 6 in. conduit with foam, but i prefer to keep the heat exchanger fonction.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:02 pm 
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Location: Welland, ON, CA
Amazing!

I just had my ceiling drywalled today, tomorrow they tape and mud, hopefully I can have it painted this weekend.

I used to have what they called a drop ceiling and I hated it, and then decided to rip it down a week ago.It was there when the home was built in 1992, we bought the home in 94.And I finally got rid of it.But it will be my new HT room once I get my Maggie on wall system,I've decided to go back to my roots, back to my first dedicated listening space.It's just off the open large rec room that was my 2 channel home.

I gained almost a foot of height, and because I have the silent floor "I" beam construction it was really easy to re-root some wiring and HVAC piping and place the safe and sound.

The drywall crew used the 1/2 inch sheets, which not as thick, are easier, larger and you don't have as many joints to tape and seal.

Now if It was an ideal room I would have installed another layer of half inch over the first one and screwed it down in a different direction than the first.
If you can still do this,and overlap the first layer,it's supposed to work quite well.


The reason I didn't do this is that I also plan on installing a new cork floor, and rip out the old carpet(the last carpet in the house) so all my audio gear is going to be moved to the original small hifi room I used when I first moved in.
No spikes and heavy gear racks and record and cd storage bins are going to rip that new corkfloor up.

The large room is very large, and has an opening to the main level via stairs, so the sound was not what you would call intimate.

I got it to the best that I could with a lot of room tuning, but still not the ideal layout.


The smaller room, about 1 third the size, is more on the medium size of most audio only rooms, but alas it's finished, so no extra new layers of dry wall here.

I am hoping that the new room( approx-16x28x8) will have an intimacy that the big room lacked, but that it won't be too small a room for my present gear.


Here's hoping we all have a good outcome in our new digs.

-- 17 Aug 2010 01:06 --

I forgot to mention that my electrical panel is in this room so I'll have much shorter dedicated lines to the gear.This is the big plus side to this move.

I am considering going with the JPS audio in wall power cable,and we have a local Cdn distributor who has been quite kind and helpful, thanks in advance Allan.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2010 5:11 pm 
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Chuck Lee wrote:
Here's hoping we all have a good outcome in our new digs.
I'll second that, but you really should've gone the extra 1/2" on the drywall. Plain drywall sounds awful, as I discovered when I ripped out the plaster/wood lath in my house to put in new phone and cable, ac wiring, insulation, vapour barrier. Covered it all up with 5/8 dw but the acoustics were never the same.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 4:38 am 
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Location: Niagara Region, ON, CA
Hi: Just wondering if this green sound tape would work:http://www.greengluecompany.com/noiseproofing_tape.php,stuck to the ceiling joists before the drywall goes up?. They use it for flooring and steps, basically.Not too keen on putting up resilient channeling,mainly because in this house there is not one wall that is square or plumb,so I am guessing the ceiling is out of whack also,so if I have to shim each joist for the channel,not sure if that's good,I dunno!. I guess that I would have to shim even with this tape!! Too bad most of this soundproofing stuff is not available readily! Thanks and still thinking. Keith

-- 19 Aug 2010 11:14 --

Hi: Seems that Rona carries this Sonopan and the resilient bars(Bailey),which is 3/4" thick,but I am concerned with the weight of this panelling,plus a 5/"8 drywall,seems like a fair amount of weight on these bars!.I guess I can install the 3/4" Sonopan first,directly to the joists,then attach the channels through that to the joists,that should be good enough for the weight issue.These Sonopan panels are $22.99 each for 3/4" 4x8..not a bad price,I need 9 sheets.Thanks,Keith

-- 19 Aug 2010 11:17 --

ripblade wrote:
Chuck Lee wrote:
Here's hoping we all have a good outcome in our new digs.
I'll second that, but you really should've gone the extra 1/2" on the drywall. Plain drywall sounds awful, as I discovered when I ripped out the plaster/wood lath in my house to put in new phone and cable, ac wiring, insulation, vapour barrier. Covered it all up with 5/8 dw but the acoustics were never the same.


Hi: Not sure what you mean when you say "the acoustics were never the same"....does that mean never better or never as bad?. Thanks,Keith

-- 22 Aug 2010 12:48 --

Should I do the same with the walls,as far as decoupling goes? I only planned on doing the ceiling with the channeling to decouple it from the joists that the floor above is naled to,but since the walls (3 are outside walls) are attached, basically to the room above,some vibrations(sound) will still be transmitted via the wall to this room directly above?! Thanks,Keith

-- 16 Sep 2010 21:19 --

Does anyone have any experience with these Genie Clips as opposed to the regular resilient channeling?. They look like they are quite expensive per piece. The link is here:http://www.acoustiguard.com/Genie-Clip/ Thanks,Huck


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