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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 11:34 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:29 am
Posts: 500
Location: St.Catharines, ON, CA
Tangram wrote:
Serious question. Should a room that has been designed and built specifically for HT and which has turned out great for HT also sound great for two-channel music? My 2-channel is in my HT room and while the HT is awesome, listening to music, the room seems too "dead" for my liking.

Pics for grins.Same corner.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:19 am
Posts: 1482
Location: London, ON, CA
Bodie wrote:
brownslane wrote:
I agree with the previous posts. I just finished my listening/HT room in my basement. 20 foot wide, 16 deep, 8 foot ceilings. It took about 3 months to get everything (sound attenuation, speaker isolation pads, etc) sorted out but I now have a great "neutral" room with no booming, nice sound projection, a wide "sweet spot", and great sound. Another vote for safe and sound; buy lots and use it everywhere! If there is a cavity anywhere in the house, stuff some S&S in it! Your ears (and your family) will thank you. As I am in Markham as well, you are welcome to come by, give a listen, and discuss your plans. I pre-wired everything (speakers, etc,) and added separately grounded (isolated) power to the HT cabinet I built in.....what I WISH I had done was to install a power conditioner upstream (in the breaker panel area) and wire directly to the outlets.....I messed up and drywalled, painted etc before I realized my mistake....so I have the conditioner located in the cabinet....but it would have been more elegant to have hidden it with the breaker panel.

Good luck and you can really have a great sounding room with a little work.


Was this a DIY project?
With so much contradictions in good natured suggestions, how did you know what materials to use. For example, I was told S and S wasn't going to provide the correct insulation. Was told to use fire retardant drywall....etc.

-- 06 Jan 2017 14:16 --

I have enough knowledge and advise network but that said, a hands on approach is what will eliminate as many error factors as possible.

I'm not a DIY guy and would screw up as a labourer or contractor


One of the reasons I rarely get into details on this stuff is that first of all the customers "ask" although can sound much like another customers "ask" is almost never the the same answer...Several reasons for this but the two biggest is that of available budget to complete this project and to what extent the customer really wants to take this. Further, every space is different, no exceptions and this is where homework comes in.
For some the attempt to safe/sound everything is enough and they carry on, for others an entire building envelope is required to execute the job to their level. When I read that someone wants to control sound down to 20hz the only concrete thing I can say is that Safe/Sound and 5/8" CDX drywall are only going to be part of a much more elaborate build...The takeaway needs to be :how much are you willing to spend? and how much of the research and or build are you comfortable doing yourself to match your budget.
As a piece of advice it is a little unlikely that all the info your going to need can come from a forum like this ,and I mean no disrespect with that statement, to gather what you need is going to be on several more specific forums or manufacturers website....or hire a pro.

If you want to get a snapshot of the kind of tech it takes to control frequencies to that level I suggest you visit the Vicoustic website....If you go into their building materials portion you will find some helpful ideology on how this is done. Its not the only manufacture that has these types of products , not by a long shot , however their PDF views on wall assemblies may garner some ideas for you in the future as you move on...

http://www.vicoustic.com/category/b-c-products


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2017 6:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:52 pm
Posts: 202
Location: Markham, ON, CA
ADCO wrote:
Bodie wrote:
brownslane wrote:
I agree with the previous posts. I just finished my listening/HT room in my basement. 20 foot wide, 16 deep, 8 foot ceilings. It took about 3 months to get everything (sound attenuation, speaker isolation pads, etc) sorted out but I now have a great "neutral" room with no booming, nice sound projection, a wide "sweet spot", and great sound. Another vote for safe and sound; buy lots and use it everywhere! If there is a cavity anywhere in the house, stuff some S&S in it! Your ears (and your family) will thank you. As I am in Markham as well, you are welcome to come by, give a listen, and discuss your plans. I pre-wired everything (speakers, etc,) and added separately grounded (isolated) power to the HT cabinet I built in.....what I WISH I had done was to install a power conditioner upstream (in the breaker panel area) and wire directly to the outlets.....I messed up and drywalled, painted etc before I realized my mistake....so I have the conditioner located in the cabinet....but it would have been more elegant to have hidden it with the breaker panel.

Good luck and you can really have a great sounding room with a little work.


Was this a DIY project?
With so much contradictions in good natured suggestions, how did you know what materials to use. For example, I was told S and S wasn't going to provide the correct insulation. Was told to use fire retardant drywall....etc.

-- 06 Jan 2017 14:16 --

I have enough knowledge and advise network but that said, a hands on approach is what will eliminate as many error factors as possible.

I'm not a DIY guy and would screw up as a labourer or contractor


One of the reasons I rarely get into details on this stuff is that first of all the customers "ask" although can sound much like another customers "ask" is almost never the the same answer...Several reasons for this but the two biggest is that of available budget to complete this project and to what extent the customer really wants to take this. Further, every space is different, no exceptions and this is where homework comes in.
For some the attempt to safe/sound everything is enough and they carry on, for others an entire building envelope is required to execute the job to their level. When I read that someone wants to control sound down to 20hz the only concrete thing I can say is that Safe/Sound and 5/8" CDX drywall are only going to be part of a much more elaborate build...The takeaway needs to be :how much are you willing to spend? and how much of the research and or build are you comfortable doing yourself to match your budget.
As a piece of advice it is a little unlikely that all the info your going to need can come from a forum like this ,and I mean no disrespect with that statement, to gather what you need is going to be on several more specific forums or manufacturers website....or hire a pro.

If you want to get a snapshot of the kind of tech it takes to control frequencies to that level I suggest you visit the Vicoustic website....If you go into their building materials portion you will find some helpful ideology on how this is done. Its not the only manufacture that has these types of products , not by a long shot , however their PDF views on wall assemblies may garner some ideas for you in the future as you move on...

http://www.vicoustic.com/category/b-c-products



Your absolutely right.I need to plan out my budget for this project 1st and build it to the best of that limit.
Im aware the lower the Hz you need isolate, the more invested you must be.
My plan is to add a pair of subs - most likely REL G2 MkII so based on that added extension,Ill do as much as I can with room build.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2017 7:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2005 8:43 am
Posts: 948
Location: Burlington, ON, CA
Not a pro, but a guy who did some investigations about sound transmission for a while before building my own basement.

There is a BIG difference between true soundproofing, and addressing sound transmission.

In my situation, I went with the easy stuff to help address sound transmission. I could not consider true soundproofing due to $ and lifestyle constraints.

I see about 30-35dB reduction from in room sound to the room above. It is about 45dB+ to the bedroom level.

The leakage to the room above the listening room is bass transmission through the floor - 23 pot lights in the basement ceiling, so no way that true soundproofing was going to work.

The leakage to the bedroom level is almost all through the ductwork. It is very difficult and $ intensive to address that.

Since I listen no louder than 80-90dB, the leakage levels from my room are acceptable to me. I spent under 1K on the materials added to the basement build to address sound transmission. I did the Roxul install myself, but doubt I saved more than 1K doing it. The guys installing my basement door would have installed 1 door anyway, so no uplift there.

I would spend some timing reading about soundproofing, considering your listening habits (volume, timing), proximity of the basement room to other areas you are concerned about for sound transmission, and talk to a few pro's (there are a few here in this thread I would start with).

IF you want to play live drums in the basement and not hear it in the room directly above it, I am sure it can be done. I am also sure my budget in NO way allowed for that. Thankfully my own needs in no way required THAT level of sound transmission prevention.

I just went with the simple stuff, and reaped good benefits in my estimation.

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Mark in Burlington


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