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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 1:50 pm 
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and a pro power amp is always be tougher and better made than a plate amp and you will pay about the same price. .


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 3:42 pm 
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Check out the Behringer INuke 1000dsp!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 3:43 pm 
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Quote:
pro power amp is always be tougher and better made than a plate amp

+1

Since most plate amps are built to a price point, you would be better off getting a stand alone amp. Dayton Audio makes one with frequency controls.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 4:54 pm 
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As Deant said I don't think that driver is very suited for home use. It's resonance is 36 hz and it's QT is over .4
You can buy Dynaco A 25 woofers for about 50 bucks that have better specs Than that.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 5:21 pm 
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analogluvr wrote:
As Deant said I don't think that driver is very suited for home use. It's resonance is 36 hz and it's QT is over .4
You can buy Dynaco A 25 woofers for about 50 bucks that have better specs Than that.

your dynaco woofer would last 5 minute as a subwoofer drivers. anything made to take a lot of power and capable of very low frequency ,will have high qts


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 6:03 pm 
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Location: Pierrefonds, QC, CA
I have a box already that's tuned to 27hz that I'm gonna give it a try. If not I'll build a sealed box. I have an inuke 6000dsp for my primary Ht setup and would think to get the Inuke 1000 for this setup, but I don't like the fact that they don't have a 12v trigger. Any power amps that have them out of the box that would be inexpensive?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 6:05 pm 
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I run a pair of sealed 12" Infinty 1262w car subs in 1.5ft3 enclosures with a pair of JBL L5 mains. For HT they'd be awful subs without being in a ported enclosure, and even then, I'd be inclined to go with something else. And these have a much lower Fs IIRC... Something to consider.

The people who instantly poo poo car subs are probably averse to the looks or have never heard them used properly in a home environment - because it can and has been done well. There are drivers that are more than adequate for the home environment. When I was a kid JL Audio were the best car subs and didn't make home audio gear that I knew of... Now it's the home sub to get if you ask some.

I also have pro drivers in my setup that are considered "cheap" but they sound to me pretty great... so what do I know? Specs are more important than application IMO.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 6:13 pm 
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zon001 wrote:
analogluvr wrote:
As Deant said I don't think that driver is very suited for home use. It's resonance is 36 hz and it's QT is over .4
You can buy Dynaco A 25 woofers for about 50 bucks that have better specs Than that.


your dynaco woofer would last 5 minute as a subwoofer drivers. anything made to take a lot of power and capable of very low frequency ,will have high qts



+1

Is the Dynaco A25 even a subwoofer? the high FS doesnt matter once you put it in a proper enclosure. This thing has a very though mechanical and thermal capabilities that could take a beating and pretty much yield great results for home theater, very useful traits where lots of dynamics and explosions come into play !!


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 8:32 pm 
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Its a typical car sub. Depending on what you are going for it may work. If you want a musical sub for low to moderate listening a sealed box looks decent. At higher listening levels it WILL bottom out when serious power is put to it. For home theater I would do passive radiator. A box size of around .7cuft with a couple 12" peerless PRs or equivalent looks decent. Tune to 28hz and give it about 5db boost at tuning. Make sure the subsonic filter engages by 22hz. It will play around 105db with 500watts. Not too shabby but keep in mind a Peerless 10" xls in a PR box will do 107db at 25hz.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 3:42 am 
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I have been using a DIY sub built with a 12 inch Nakamichi sub for years in my main floor tv setup. 3 cubic feet ported to 23Hz. I use a 500w plate amp that is not part of the enclosure.

Plenty of HT bass.

Have used a Rockford HX12 before too. My big HT sub in the basement is a dual 12 Mach5Audio ported unit with a Dayton 500w plate amp.

I would prefer a pro amp like the Crown XLS but the plate amps have held up well.

Worth exploration with your 12.

I like ported subs in home theatre but interestingly sealed subs in the car.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 6:28 am 
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It's currently in a ported box, approx. 3 cubes with 2 aeroports tuned to 28hz or so.
I may give it a try as-is to see what it sounds like, but i'm guessing I may end up with a lot of port noise for now... but you never know!
If it does work out, I'll likely build a sealed box to save space and keep it compact.
Any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:06 am 
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bass_4_ever wrote:
It's currently in a ported box, approx. 3 cubes with 2 aeroports tuned to 28hz or so.
I may give it a try as-is to see what it sounds like, but i'm guessing I may end up with a lot of port noise for now... but you never know!
If it does work out, I'll likely build a sealed box to save space and keep it compact.
Any suggestions?


I think Sundown suggests around 1 to 1.5cu.ft sealed, the bigger the sealed box, the more low end you'll have effortlessly and will require less power BUT it might bottom out mechanically more easily too and might sound "losse", not enough compression, so you have to find the sweet spot, nothing an EQ/ DSP/ xover couldnt fix though, but i think a tighter box would be better, thats where some pro audio amp come in handy, btw do you have the first version or the V2 of that X12?

But like Deant said down here, the most optimal setup would be going with 2 passive radiators setup that would take up the same space as sealed box and will put out similar output of ported box! i would personally try to tune lower than 28hz though

Deant wrote:
Its a typical car sub. Depending on what you are going for it may work. If you want a musical sub for low to moderate listening a sealed box looks decent. At higher listening levels it WILL bottom out when serious power is put to it. For home theater I would do passive radiator. A box size of around .7cuft with a couple 12" peerless PRs or equivalent looks decent. Tune to 28hz and give it about 5db boost at tuning. Make sure the subsonic filter engages by 22hz. It will play around 105db with 500watts. Not too shabby but keep in mind a Peerless 10" xls in a PR box will do 107db at 25hz.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:22 am 
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I have the V1 X12.
I agree that 28hz may be too high for an HT setup - but I'd like to try it before venturing into the unknown. I've build several car audio boxes in the past (2 10s, 2 12s, 2 15s, 6 10s all ported. Never did any sealed. Also, i don't know the first thing about PR's so that may hinder this a little... hehe


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 7:32 am 
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bass_4_ever wrote:
I have a box already that's tuned to 27hz that I'm gonna give it a try. If not I'll build a sealed box. I have an inuke 6000dsp for my primary Ht setup and would think to get the Inuke 1000 for this setup, but I don't like the fact that they don't have a 12v trigger. Any power amps that have them out of the box that would be inexpensive?

Sounds like the box is about right. There are some very good calculators online now...should be easy to plug in the values to come up with something more refined if it's necessary.

I would build a separate 4 or 5-sided box for the plate amp. If you cut into the existing box, the amp's internals will displace the needed box volume. A separate box will also save it from the punishing pressures inside the sub. Plus, it looks cool lol.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 8:04 am 
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gotcha - I haven't built boxes in forever... can you point me in the direction of a good box calculator these days?
I used to use Torres box calculator in the past, but can't find it anywhere.


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