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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 9:53 am 
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Location: Mirabel, QC, CA
Hi,

I have a old cassette deck I would like to start using again. It has been out of service for a while. I wanted to know what products are currently being used to clean tap heads, pinch rollers, and capstans? Also what cleaner could be used to clean the embedded dust and other dirt/grime from the metal and plastic front grill?

Thanks,


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 11:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 6:38 am
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Location: GTA, ON, CA
For the tape head, pinch roller and capston, I recommend this Nagaoka HC-800II Tape Head Cleaner Kit;

https://www.turntableneedles.com/Nagaok ... _3925.html

I also use cotton swabs from Mgchemical that are made for working on electronics products;

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cle ... swabs-8113

QTips shed too much and the fibers can get into the mechanism.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 12:16 pm 
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Posts: 222
Location: North Gower, ON, CA
Greg_567 wrote:
For the tape head, pinch roller and capston, I recommend this Nagaoka HC-800II Tape Head Cleaner Kit;

https://www.turntableneedles.com/Nagaok ... _3925.html

I also use cotton swabs from Mgchemical that are made for working on electronics products;

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cle ... swabs-8113

QTips shed too much and the fibers can get into the mechanism.


Wow, I'm also a tapehead, so Thanks muchly for those links.
Ott.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 12:42 pm 
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Location: Mirabel, QC, CA
Thanks for the help Greg. This product reminds me of the Teac cleaners I used back in the day. One colour for the metal parts and one colour for the rubber parts.


Greg_567 wrote:
For the tape head, pinch roller and capston, I recommend this Nagaoka HC-800II Tape Head Cleaner Kit;

https://www.turntableneedles.com/Nagaok ... _3925.html

I also use cotton swabs from Mgchemical that are made for working on electronics products;

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cle ... swabs-8113

QTips shed too much and the fibers can get into the mechanism.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 4:10 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, CA
These may be of interest:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01E4W ... UTF8&psc=1

These foam swabs are very handy. I haven't used them on tape decks so your mileage may very.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2012 11:11 am
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Location: GTA, ON, CA
It also helps to demagnetize the playback/recording head, I had been using TDK HEAD DEMAGNETIZER HD-11 -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEAD-DEMAGNETIZ ... 2968822556

for my cassette and open reel deck, if you only need to demagnetize cassette deck, TDK HEAD DEMAGNETIZER HD-01 -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TDK-Cassette-He ... SwKytZJ69H

would be easier to obtain.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 7:17 am 
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Location: Stratford, ON, CA
Hi,

Suggestion. Get a small bottle of Isopropyl alcohol and some Q-tips and clean away. That's what everybody used in studios back in the day when tape was king. Use that money you would spend on 'other products' on buying more music.

Cheers,
David Neice

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 7:30 am 
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buybye88 wrote:
Hi,

Suggestion. Get a small bottle of Isopropyl alcohol and some Q-tips and clean away. That's what everybody used in studios back in the day when tape was king. Use that money you would spend on 'other products' on buying more music.

Cheers,
David Neice


The money you save can be used to fund a replacement pinch roller after it loses is elasticity due to by being cleaned by Isopropyl alcohol.

Since cassette decks are no longer manufactured and replacement parts scarce, I prefer to spend some extra money on the proper cleaning products.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 8:27 am 
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Location: Montreal, QC, CA
Greg_567 wrote:
buybye88 wrote:
Hi,

Suggestion. Get a small bottle of Isopropyl alcohol and some Q-tips and clean away. That's what everybody used in studios back in the day when tape was king. Use that money you would spend on 'other products' on buying more music.

Cheers,
David Neice


The money you save can be used to fund a replacement pinch roller after it loses is elasticity due to by being cleaned by Isopropyl alcohol.

Since cassette decks are no longer manufactured and replacement parts scarce, I prefer to spend some extra money on the proper cleaning products.


Never use isopropyl alcohol on the pinch rollers (only on the heads and metal parts). For rubber parts, use a product called Rubber Renue or drop by your closest diving gear shop; they sell an equivalent product for rubber wet suits.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 12:00 pm 
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OBI56 wrote:
Never use isopropyl alcohol on the pinch rollers (only on the heads and metal parts). For rubber parts, use a product called Rubber Renue or drop by your closest diving gear shop; they sell an equivalent product for rubber wet suits.


Numerous audio and video techs have told me that denatured alcohol is safe to use on rubber parts. You may or may not find it at your local pharmacy. If not, most hardware stores sell it; Lowes and Home Depot too.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 2:30 pm 
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Location: toronto, ON, CA
Studer in Toronto used Windex on pressure rollers. I usually use distilled water and sometimes Windex on mine.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 3:37 pm 
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hifijones wrote:
OBI56 wrote:
Never use isopropyl alcohol on the pinch rollers (only on the heads and metal parts). For rubber parts, use a product called Rubber Renue or drop by your closest diving gear shop; they sell an equivalent product for rubber wet suits.


Numerous audio and video techs have told me that denatured alcohol is safe to use on rubber parts. You may or may not find it at your local pharmacy. If not, most hardware stores sell it; Lowes and Home Depot too.


Here is a scientific fact for you: Rubber - most rubbers are probably resistant to alcohols, but prolonged exposure WILL cause loss of elasticity. Its not the immediate effect that you have to worry about, its the long term effects. Pinch rollers and drive belts depend on their specific elasticity and grippiness to get the job done properly. Too hard and they slip, too soft and gummy and tape gets stuck to them and tangles around everywhere.

Cassette and R2R decks are getting on in years and, especially after a few years storage, parts like pinch rollers and belts have dried up, snapped or melted and are no longer available. Properly maintained 40-50 year old parts however are still running just fine.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 5:17 pm 
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Hi,

OBI56 wrote: ' Properly maintained 40-50 year old parts however are still running just fine.'
Does that apply to us? If I had known I was going to live this long I might have taken better care of myself!!

So, are we agreed that isopropyl alcohol or (even) denatured alcohol will clean metal parts on tape decks? It also cleaned a lot of pinch rollers during the first ten years of their useful life. For 40 year old pinch rollers maybe other products are more helpful.

Cheers,
David Neice

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 6:16 pm 
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buybye88 wrote:
Hi,

OBI56 wrote: ' Properly maintained 40-50 year old parts however are still running just fine.'
Does that apply to us? If I had known I was going to live this long I might have taken better care of myself!!

So, are we agreed that isopropyl alcohol or (even) denatured alcohol will clean metal parts on tape decks? It also cleaned a lot of pinch rollers during the first ten years of their useful life. For 40 year old pinch rollers maybe other products are more helpful.

Cheers,
David Neice


Isopropyl or denatured alcohol IS the correct product for cleaning metal parts. However, it is the worst thing you can use on rubber. And remember just how old tape recorders really are from their heyday of the 70s. The youngest ones are around 30 years old with 40 and 50 years old units being the norm (I'm not including the more recent, high end, revival units here). Rubber is not immortal and anything you used that could attack its molecular structure and properties in the past, will really show its effects by now. Mind you, alcohol WILL clean rubber quite well, but its side effects are much worse over time.

Look at properly maintained 20-30-40 rubber wet suits, always cleaned with the proper products compared to similar aged rubber wet suits cleaned with alcohol. Oh, wait, you cant because they all desintegrated, cracked, leaked by the time they hit 4 or 5 years old, even less if they spent too much time out in the sun. With the proper cleaning, rejuvenating product, you could often get a few more years of service out of them.

BTW, the same thing applies to rubber turntable drive belts and idler wheels.


Time for another vintage car analogy: Take 2 old Jaguar E-Type coupes, same year, same model. 1 has been driven sparingly but regularly since new, been over-maintained and babied, washed and its surfaces protected with the appropriate waxes, sealants and protectors. The other driven for a year, then stored for 30 years with minimal interim maintenance aside from checking the tire pressure and battery charge. Which one has cracked and faded leather seats, cracking tires that leak air, runs cleanly BEFORE needing a full engine, chassis, electricals and transmission teardown and rebuild and which one would you trust to take you on a 10 day, cross country trip and get you back? Once those leather seats have cracked, you may be able to camouflage them, but they need to be replaced, Same with those 40 year old tires.

If I had known I was going to live this long I might have taken better care of myself!!

Therein lies the answer. Back in the day, many people didn't know better or were too cheap and shortsighted to listen to those who did. Which is why we wind up with so many "restored" units failing so soon unless the worn parts have been replaced with new ones.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:57 pm 
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Location: Stratford, ON, CA
Hi,

OBI56 is dead right. Always keep your 'rubbers' away from those bottles of isopropyl alcohol!! :roll:

Cheers,
David Neice

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