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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 12:38 pm 
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Location: Nanaimo, BC, CA
First post in the section!

So.. I've so far been wedging my sub enclosuring under my rear cover bar in my SUV... its fairly wedged in there and i feel the kick in the seats and the car like I should, much more than if the box is just sitting there, but i'm curious as to whether if I drill holes and bolt the actual box down if it will give a much punchier and tighter sound?

Nelson


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 Post subject: Hunch
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 12:47 pm 
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Sono'

Let me qualify this statement by stating up front that this is strictly a hunch; but it seems as though that might cause the metal of the vehicle body in the immediate vicinity to couple with, and vibrate, (perhaps resonate), in sympathy with the vibration from the sub enclosure, thus adding coloration... (?)

Andrew D.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 3:04 pm 
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Location: Nanaimo, BC, CA
Andrew,
Yes I guess that could be the case, but having the subwoofer just lying there sounded horrible... it was flabby and there wasn't that kick that i like.

I think many people bolt their subs in but i've seen several people just strap them down on their own weight too. When my sub was just lying there, it would slide around in the back tho, which wasn't good either.

neL


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2005 8:23 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC, CA
How about using a decoupling material on the bolts?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:50 pm 
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Location: Vancouver, BC, CA
In BC the insurance companies require you to bolt the sub onto the car frame or else its not insured. I've not noticed any significant difference myself either way.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:08 am 
really


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 6:46 am 
you could always weild it down


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 7:04 am 
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I do not get this post.Whats the advantage of welding?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 10:29 am 
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Location: Nanaimo, BC, CA
yeah.. in BC they do require you to bolt it down otherwise the subs are not covered.. you'd have to claim them under home insurance which means bigger deductible.

As for welding.. i'm not sure how you'd weld a wooden enclosure to the frame...


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2005 10:41 am 
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Location: Newmarket, ON, CA
I've got mine secured with bolts thru the sub-floor in the trunk, around the paremeter of the sub. they're not in the enclosure itself, just snugging it in. the angle on the back of the enclosure matches the angle of the seat-back, and with it secured like this, theres no movement, even during hard fast cornering. :twisted:


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2005 6:25 pm 
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If you don't want to damage your sub enclosure its perfectly legit in BC to use some metal strips bolted to the car frame. The sub itself doesn't have to be literally bolted to the frame, it just has to be secured physically, and bolting strips of metal that keep the sub in place will do the trick.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:11 pm 
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Location: Torrance, CA, US
Hello,

Bolting your enclosure down is both sonically and safety wise a good idea. You did not list what type of vehicle you have, but most suv's can allow access to bolting by dropping the spare tire and than putting it back after installation. Make sure your vehicle does not have wires, fuel lines, or a fuel tank under the location for drilling. If all is clear remove the subwoofers from the enclosure and drill through the bottom and into the sheet metal. make sure to use strong bolts like grade #8 hardware with large fender washers on the inside on the enclosure, and on the underside of the floor metal. You may need someone to hold a wrench on one side while you tighten on the other. Put a bead of silicone around the hardware inside the enclosure and re-install the subwoofers. Your enclosure isn't going anywhere. I have an enclosure for 6-15" drivers in my Toyota Landcruiser installed this way- and it doesn't move at all + it couples better to the cabin because of zero loss due to enclosure movement caused by the mechanical oscillation of the subwoofer cones/soft parts. Again, this is all vehicle dependent and make absolut sure to check for anything in the way of drilling the holes before you start. Feel free to email me with any questions.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:22 am 
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Location: Burlington, ON, CA
Not sure if it will sound any better, but I have always used strips of mdf and velcro - the velcro stapled to the strips of mdf, painted black (the carpet colour I have always had) and then laid around the sub box - the velcro grips the carpet, and even when doing donuts in my BMW, the box would stay put...


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 Post subject: Sound or safety
PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:35 am 
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Location: Wet coast
Securing your subwoofer cabinet will not make a difference sonically, it will however protect your passangers in case of collision. The subwoofer cabinet may become a projectile, if not secured, and seriously hurt/kill someone, and yes, you are liable, just as the installer/mechanic is.
In case of theft,in BC, ANY insurance company will require that the item be "secured" to the vehicle chassis, so that a "tool" must be used to remove it.
Velco and drywall screws simply don't cut it.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:02 am 
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Location: Dunrobin, ON, CA
Speaking from experience, you are well advised to securely fasten everything in your vehicle, because when you are hitting the brakes really hard to avoid a collision or school kid, everything in the vehicle comes sliding to the front - and a sub just sitting there between two seats has a way of breaking loose under rapid decelaration - you don't want it flying forward at negative 60 miles an hour and aimed at the back of your seat1


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