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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 7:11 am 
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Location: Waterloo, ON, CA
zhenya01 wrote:
soundfreak wrote:
The sound is ok but when I noticed it was only 18 ga and spliced into the factory wiring I couldn't help but think better wiring would help improve it. I would do the work myself. I've got some credit at 123 Ink Cartridges so I could have a spool of 50ft of wire with it.


At the end of the day, that's what's our hobby is all about. If you are going to do it yourself and if your amp/speakers terminals will take the wire gauge, why not give it a try?


I couldn't agree more. I have learned so much doing things myself. Most importantly when you want it done right sometimes you need to do it yourself. To me what they did here is half a$$ed.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:01 pm 
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Location: Edmonton, AB, CA
I like light guage


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:12 pm 
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I prefer clothes dryer power cords for speaker cables. Go BIG or go home.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2015 8:50 pm 
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Location: Hamilton, ON, CA
12 gauge would be great on a sub box.
Factory wire is spagetti thin from the factory deck to the doors.

14-16 is plenty large for mid/tweeter drivers in car audio.

Its always a good practice to run your own wires to isolate bad grounds and connections. Damp rugs in the winter car reek havoc on connections if not properly spiced.

- solder and shirk wrap is #1
- bullets connectors or butt connectors shrink wrapped is #2
- last case is the old pig tail and tape.

Check your connections first if a shop has been installing, its a lost art.
-ground, trigger, power etc., check them all.

I always liked buying a adaptor that plugged in factory harness and doing it myself to be sure.

Been over 20 years since the old Civic "bumped"...

Have fun.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:01 pm 
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Location: Victoria, BC, CA
JGP wrote:
12 gauge would be great on a sub box.
Factory wire is spagetti thin from the factory deck to the doors.

14-16 is plenty large for mid/tweeter drivers in car audio.

Its always a good practice to run your own wires to isolate bad grounds and connections. Damp rugs in the winter car reek havoc on connections if not properly spiced.

- solder and shirk wrap is #1
- bullets connectors or butt connectors shrink wrapped is #2
- last case is the old pig tail and tape.

Check your connections first if a shop has been installing, its a lost art.
-ground, trigger, power etc., check them all.

I always liked buying a adaptor that plugged in factory harness and doing it myself to be sure.

Been over 20 years since the old Civic "bumped"...

Have fun.



Nailed it.
A big +1 from me!


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 7:46 am 
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Location: calgary, AB, CA
OBI56 wrote:
soundfreak wrote:
I'm wondering what's the best guage to use for a 125W 4 channel amp running 4 6.5" 2 way Infinity speakers?

I currently have the 18ga that the stereo shop installed, but i am thinking it's too small. Maybe some 14ga would yield better sound quality?

thanks

It can actually depend on what type of connections are available on your amp and speakers. Spring-loaded binding posts are notorious for not accepting larger gauge wiring above, say, 16 ga. If you ave 5 way binding posts all around, then the sky is pretty much the limit of the connectors you choose tu use. As for practical gauges, IMO go straight to 12ga, the most commonly available speaker wire. Bogger gauges will increase the grip on the bass (better damping factor) than your thin 18ga.

You don't mention lengths or your budget, but one of the more cost effective choices in good sounding speaker wire is the Axiom superstranded 12ga at around $1 a foot. Other good brands include Belden, Mogami and Cardas. Exotic wiring can easily reach into the $10+ a foot range, so it can get real expensive real fast.



I use the $6ft custom install straighwire speaker wire and it sounds awesome!!! :D :D :D at home and in car


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 11:34 am 
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Location: Prince George, BC, CA
14 gauge is plenty large for any audio application. I base this theory on my extensive pseudo scientific background :D


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 11:43 am 
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I dunno, maybe.... don't you think that given the size of an electron, that 12 gauge wiring is like an electron highway that's as wide as Alberta? Plenty of lane changes are possible, so maybe all of the electrons won't arrive in a coherent stream.... I say go as narrow as possible.... like the vintage 22 gauge speaker wire they used to sell back in the day when they made them like they used to.....


:wink:

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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 12:02 pm 
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alienautopsy wrote:
14 gauge is plenty large for any audio application. I base this theory on my extensive pseudo scientific background :D


I don't care - My cables are 2x12Gauge twisted together. Totally unnecessary for the enormous six foot run, but they look cool :lol:


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 12:44 pm 
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I agree with the above boys in the playground !!!!
12 gauge is a perfect starting point and a definite improvement from 18 awg

for the money go for Monoprice speaker wire OFC and you can get local- right here off CAM

Cheers


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 2:04 pm 
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If you've ever looked inside the average speaker you won't find any 12 or 10 gauge wire - the obvious reason would be that the supplied 14 or 16 wire is hardly a bottleneck for the feeble current being circulated around the fine wire that wraps the voice coil formers (we're not arc-welding here)
Me thinks the same holds true with power cables; do you really think an 8 gauge falic symbol is necessary to charge up the p.s capacitors?
All cabling are tone controls! :roll:


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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 2:11 pm 
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alienautopsy wrote:
All cabling are tone controls! :roll:


That assumes that you've read enough internet crap about cables to have formed an opinion prior to listening. Or, that the cable being considered a tone control acts as the opposite of pure resistance. It has a high reactance.

I suggest that you would get more and better tone control using capacitors than cables.

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PostPosted: Fri May 29, 2015 3:23 pm 
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Erik wrote:
alienautopsy wrote:
All cabling are tone controls! :roll:


That assumes that you've read enough internet crap about cables to have formed an opinion prior to listening. Or, that the cable being considered a tone control acts as the opposite of pure resistance. It has a high reactance.

I suggest that you would get more and better tone control using capacitors than cables.


"Good" cables will not make a mediocre system sound great. inferiorly built cables will make a good system sound like ****.
If you have an amp and speakers you like, you don't need to color the sound with certain cables. Just need something balanced and neutral. Only reason I could suggest looking into cables that color sound is if you have a system you love that needs a slight correction in it's acoustics that doesn't require all new components.

Toughest part of the cable game is that you don't always have a chance to hear different cables in a low pressure environment. It's tough


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 12:46 am 
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I think the toughest part of the game is where the manufacturer convinces the buyer that cables are important.

Here is a cable manufacturer trying to do exactly that. What he accomplishes though, is proving that short runs of interconnects and speaker wires ( like most people use), have inaudible differences.

http://www.empiricalaudio.com/computer-audio/audio-faqs/short-versus-long-cables

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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 3:11 am 
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Holy Cow Boys! It is easier for a camel to pass through the eye of a needle than a rich man to enter the kingdom. How does one fit a twisted pair of 12awg through door panels for door speakers? Not to mention for a few measly feet. You would certainly have to drill bigger holes. Specially if you are using car audio grade speaker cable, as it is usually very thick jacketed. If we are talking to a subwoofer, and we're talking like 1500w competition subs or something like that, I could understand wanting to squeeze every iota of power. And those runs tend to only be a couple feet. So I'm sure there are minimal losses.

I think there is a reason they chose 18awg. It's thin, easy to work with. I don't agree with splicing it into the original factory wire, unless it is of similar grade and size. A properly soldered join should incur minimal loss! 18awg to 18awg should be fine! I don't think you'd hear a single difference going from one generic cord to another. Not to mention, there's a ton of other things to affect the sound quality in your car than speaker wire...

Don't waste your time or money, and stick with the way it is. If the wire goes wrong in your door due to the join of two wires, then maybe you could just replace it all. But, that could be bad soldering.


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