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 Post subject: In wall wire question
PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 10:45 am 
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Location: Barrie, ON, CA
I ran the wire for a 5.1 system behind the drywall but now have to make it look good as it comes out the drywall. So im looking for advice on a box or ?? to put in the drywall and terminate the lines. Plus im not sure where id like to put it would be beside a stud. Insert joke here.
thanks for your input


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 10:57 am 
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Location: Davidson, SK, CA
I just have it come right out of the drywall, and use a bit of painters caulk if nessesary. You can put a single gang mud ring on, and then after you paint, you can get different covers with a hole, or a brush access, or a binding post (but then you are adding a connection in your signal path)
But , if done nicely, I find just a strategically placed hole in the drywall looks the best.

There are more options too I am sure.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 11:04 am 
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Location: GTA, ON, CA
As weasel says, you can just come out of the wall, but I prefer a box and you can put a nice cable outlet cover on it. You can buy a box which doesn't need stud (insert joke here), it will fasten to the drywall itself. I haven't done that in a long time, but I used one once and they were available at hardware stores like HD and Rona.

-- 09 Nov 2014 15:06 --

P.S. You know that technically you are supposed to use special speaker wire rated for in wall use? There is a specific rating for in wall. It strikes me as really dumb, but there is a code for it, so I actually bought some at Best Buy, a spool of Monster wire with the right rating. It wasn't much more and it's pretty good quality wire (for a home theater application).


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 11:10 am 
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Location: Winnipeg, MB, CA
I am using a central vac outlet cover in one area. allows stability directly into the drywall without a box.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:00 pm 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
http://www.monoprice.com/Search/Index?k ... aker+plate


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:17 pm 
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Location: London, ON, CA
Lowes has a couple of different options that work very well and you don't have to terminate the wire to the device then terminate from that wall device to re- terminate yet again at the speaker


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:42 pm 
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Location: Vernon, BC, CA
Scott wrote:
P.S. You know that technically you are supposed to use special speaker wire rated for in wall use? There is a specific rating for in wall. It strikes me as really dumb, but there is a code for it, so I actually bought some at Best Buy, a spool of Monster wire with the right rating. It wasn't much more and it's pretty good quality wire (for a home theater application).


The risk with non in-wall rated wire, is in the event of a fire the wire could ignite and carry the flame from one room to another.

If you are running the wire through any hot/cold air ducts you need "Plenium" rated wire (CL2P) as this will not give off toxic fumes when burned.

You can void your home insurance in case of a fire if the wrong type of wire is found in wall.

http://www.infinitecables.com/wall-plates.html

Image

I like using the decora keystone ones
Image

This way you can customize the wall plate
Image


Last edited by Jared Rachwalski on Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:50 pm 
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Location: Cambridge, ON, CA
just make sure that you use in-wall rated speaker cables if you want to show your set up to the inspector

-- 07 Jan 2015 00:50 --

just make sure that you use in-wall rated speaker cables if you want to show your set up to the inspector


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:51 pm 
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Location: London, ON, CA
Jared Rachwalski wrote:
Scott wrote:
P.S. You know that technically you are supposed to use special speaker wire rated for in wall use? There is a specific rating for in wall. It strikes me as really dumb, but there is a code for it, so I actually bought some at Best Buy, a spool of Monster wire with the right rating. It wasn't much more and it's pretty good quality wire (for a home theater application).


The risk with non in-wall rated wire, is in the event of a fire the wire could ignite and carry the flame from one room to another.

http://www.infinitecables.com/wall-plates.html

Image

I like using the decora keystone ones
Image

This way you can customize the wall plate
Image


Exactly right about the fire issue it is both electrical code and building code , which is sorta rare

Those wall plates mean 3 terminations per speaker, not exactly sure that is ideal


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:03 pm 
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Location: Ottawa, ON, CA
ADCO wrote:
Those wall plates mean 3 terminations per speaker, not exactly sure that is ideal


Ideal, no....
and in fact, 12 terminations per speaker (assuming no bi-wiring!)
{(amp to cable) (cable to wall) (wall to in wall cable) (in wall cable to wall) (wall to cable) (cable to speaker)} x 2
Reasonably good looking, yes...
Easier to deal with if you move, yes...

FWIW, I did this with the rear speakers in the living room surround system, before I even had a wife to express her opinion! Running the wires through the basement ceiling allowed me to use some 10 awg, silver plated copper, Teflon insulated, appliance wire I got from a surplus place. I'm not sure my audiophile nervosa would allow me to use it on the fronts, but I can't say I've heard any problems with it on the rears!

Cheers, Dave


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:11 pm 
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Location: Hamilton, ON, CA
Sayal Electronics...
131 Commerce Drive in Barrie.

All you need is there.

Banana jacks, pin jacks, bare wire jacks...rca this/that; HDMI, S Video, Cat5 covers-- whatever.
Pick your poison.

My whole system was wired like this. Most of it is designed to fasten to drywall. Hole is cut with a simple circular bit you attach to your drill. Really easy, inexpensive, and slick looking.

I have a open basement, so I ran along the ceiling in the basement, drilled a small hole through floor that lined up with the wall upstairs - another small hole through the wall upstairs and fished the wires up 6" through the wall to the cut hole with a coat hanger. Just tape your wire to it and feed it through your holes drilled...grab it when you see it with some plyers. I'll try to take some picks for you.

This way, for the 4-6" it actually is in the wall, I decided to us regular wire because most is really exposed on the unfinished ceiling down stairs. Just bought some wire spades (used to tack wire down to wood in new home construction) and neatly worked it along - looks like everyother wire now from when the house was built.

Just remember, more connections (although neat) affects sound quality to some degree. Less connections is better.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 6:19 pm 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
I cheated and used these decor pass through inserts, and they are cheap and easy:

http://www.infinitecables.com/pop/wp-dpt-wh.htm

A couple advantages :

1) less connectors =better shorter pathway
2) no need for a device box that needs to be attached to a stud, simple place your standard decora plate over your hole in the drywall and screw into drywall. If there is a lot of pressure on this insert/ plate then glue it to the drywall.
3) cheap,$2.60per, cheaper than the wall connector route, plus see reason #1 again.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 8:35 am 
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Location: Burlington, ON, CA
When I wired my basement 5.1 HT up last winter, I used CL2 wire, and a couple of different wall plate options.

For wall mounted speakers, I just drilled a 3/4 hole in the drywall and used a bent coat hangar to extract the CL2. Mounted the speakers, and you can really only see 1 of the wires between the wall and the speaker.

For source cables, I used a version of that decora pass through, or the network type block ones that accept those jacks. In some cases I inserted the jacks and had an extra couple of connections, but in others I just pulled the wire through the hole the jack would have gone through. Most of the source wires are behind my wall mounted plasma, so if you want to peer back there you can see it.

I prewired an in ceiling outlet, and have conduit leading to where an eventual PJ will go if we decide to pursue that. When that happens, i will use one of the brush inserts, or the decora pass through.

TONS of options at Sayals, and their prices are good.

Having all the gear buried in a media closet looks good. Just the wall mounted speakers and TV in the family room area. No noises or distracting lights from the amps and gear. Good fun, and was not that expensive or hard to do given I was starting with a raw space and total control of the project.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:37 am 
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Location: London, ON, CA
armaudio wrote:
I cheated and used these decor pass through inserts, and they are cheap and easy:

http://www.infinitecables.com/pop/wp-dpt-wh.htm

A couple advantages :

1) less connectors =better shorter pathway
2) no need for a device box that needs to be attached to a stud, simple place your standard decora plate over your hole in the drywall and screw into drywall. If there is a lot of pressure on this insert/ plate then glue it to the drywall.
3) cheap,$2.60per, cheaper than the wall connector route, plus see reason #1 again.


we use these in our builds often as well , primarily in office environments but they work just fine for the application


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2015 1:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 07, 2012 6:29 am
Posts: 193
Location: Toronto, ON, CA
Any custom install or systems integrator shop will have plastic frames /boxes and cover plates such as the "nose "type , allowing wire to securely and gracefully exit the wall. You just dont see this stuff retail.
Distributed by Provo, Positive Mktg. you might ask them for a local dealer to you.


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