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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 11:46 am 
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Location: azilda, ON, CA
i use a Swiffer brush on all my equipment, including my completely sock covered Golden Ear Triton Two's. That Swiffer really does clean those speakers pretty good! And I use a microfiber on my turntable cover/plinth, speaker tops/bases, with Monster Screenclean spray.
Cheers, Doug


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:30 pm 
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A little restaurant trick from Chef Faye. WD-40 cleans stainless steel better than anything (yes you read that right, WD-40). They use it in restaurants to clean the worst sh*t off and out of exhaust hoods and other SS surfaces, leaves it gleaming. I have used it for years on front panels etc.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 3:30 pm 
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Location: kanata, ON, CA
On turntable plastic dust covers, try aerosol Pledge furniture polish (not the squeeze spray type) with paper towels such as Scott towels. Has to be THAT combination. Cloth, Windex, microfibre or anything else won't do as well and can make it worse. It's just amazing how much more money you can get on that old Dual or Technics with a shiny cover. Abracadabra, small to medium scratches disappear.

Compressed air moves dirt around alright, to get rid of dust on electronic components, especially tight places around knobs and switches, carefully use the long hair brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner, the dust will be wicked away.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 5:18 pm 
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Location: azilda, ON, CA
Great tip on turntable plastic dust covers, arvidien! 8) Gonna have to try that one!
Cheers, Doug


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 6:09 pm 
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Location: Courtenay, BC, CA
I will ask my wife :D


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 5:14 pm 
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Location: Toronto, ON, CA
Anyone know the best way to get marker writing marks off a Marantz faceplate? Would rubbing alcohol work?


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 5:30 pm 
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Location: Guelph, ON, CA
Nope. need something stronger unfortunately.
Post a pic for help.

Try the alcohol just in case but it likely won't work.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 5:46 pm 
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Location: Montreal, QC, CA
stefanb wrote:
Anyone know the best way to get marker writing marks off a Marantz faceplate? Would rubbing alcohol work?


Alcohol, yes, rubbing alcohol, absolutely hot!!! Because of the additives like lanolin, they will streak like holy high he##. Stick with denatured alcohol with NO additives.

It also depends on the faceplate material and the chemical composition of the marker. One note of caution: if your faceplate is anodized (gold, champagne, grey or black) avoid alcohol at all costs. I have seen many a black anodized faceplates turn bright pink or purple even with a small amount of alcohol or ammonia such as contained in Windex and other cleaning products. No problems on an untreated or clear anodized brushed aluminum finish though. Always test on a small, inconspicuous area before attacking the full faceplate. If you are talking about the plastic or glass window on the faceplate, also be careful of what you use to clean it; rubbing alcohol will streak, Windex may permanently haze it requiring removal and machine polishing.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 6:18 pm 
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Location: Guelph, ON, CA
Anyone that has ever removed permanent marker (because that's most likely what it is) from a Marantz face plate will realize that alcohol is not going to do it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 6:35 pm 
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Location: saskatoon, SK, CA
this may sound odd but I've used permanent marker to remove permanent marker.

never tried on metal but have on plastic surfaces.

the marker in the wet state will how shall I say "liquify" the dried on stuff. be quick with a damp cloth and off it comes.

that's a last resort and don't blame me if....

-- 26 Jun 2017 02:38 --

philipwilson wrote:
I have a beautiful 40 year old Technics SU-V8 silver and large. This unit had normal fingerprints but also some white discolouration. I tried Windex (my usual choice) to little effect. For some reason I tried a small amount of MG Chenicals NU-TROL Control Cleaner. This stuff made the face plate look better than when it came out of the box 40 years ago.



probably due to the mineral oil in it.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 6:40 pm 
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That's a pro comment. I can see how that would work. Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 6:44 pm 
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BinkyTheCat wrote:
this may sound odd but I've used permanent marker to remove permanent marker.

never tried on metal but have on plastic surfaces.

the marker in the wet state will how shall I say "liquify" the dried on stuff. be quick with a damp cloth and off it comes.

that's a last resort and don't blame me if....

-- 26 Jun 2017 02:38 --

philipwilson wrote:
I have a beautiful 40 year old Technics SU-V8 silver and large. This unit had normal fingerprints but also some white discolouration. I tried Windex (my usual choice) to little effect. For some reason I tried a small amount of MG Chenicals NU-TROL Control Cleaner. This stuff made the face plate look better than when it came out of the box 40 years ago.



probably due to the mineral oil in it.


Good one Binky; I'll have to add that to my arsenal of tricks if ever a rambunctious 3 year old tries that on one of my silver pieces of gear.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 7:11 pm 
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Location: burlington, ON, CA
brake fluild is a fantastic cleaner but may also remove all printing so be very careful of it.

I just cleaned melted plastic bread bag on a Breville stainless steel counter oven that only brake fluid and a rag and arm power would remove with no damage to the stainless steel.

Left it like new but if brake fluid removes a baked on plastic that nothing else can remove then you know it will remove printing you dont want removed, so use brake fluid very carefully and very sparingly for a special job that needs such a cleaner.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 7:41 pm 
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speedy1 wrote:
brake fluild is a fantastic cleaner but may also remove all printing so be very careful of it.

I just cleaned melted plastic bread bag on a Breville stainless steel counter oven that only brake fluid and a rag and arm power would remove with no damage to the stainless steel.

Left it like new but if brake fluid removes a baked on plastic that nothing else can remove then you know it will remove printing you dont want removed, so use brake fluid very carefully and very sparingly for a special job that needs such a cleaner.



Yup, any backyard mechanic knows keep brake fluid off the paint!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 10:22 pm 
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Location: Coquitlam, BC, CA
Usually isopropyl alcohol is a great cleaner and degreaser but some lettering will come off very easily! It will work to remove adhesive labels but then so will a hairdryer. Yes, those nice brushed aluminium faceplates can be a bear to make not only clean but even, at first just a damp microfiber cloth can be used without chemicals that may be harmful, and it's usually in a way you didn't know about first. Alcohol can also be murder to certain types of clear plastics, giving them a white haze. If it's plain flat plastic it can be remade but if it's lettered you might be screwed. One trick I've found to make everything clean and shiny is silicone spray lube, it's a miracle on black surfaces and I haven't hurt any plastic with it yet. Unfortunately the oils and acids from fingers can stain a surface so it's impossible to simply clean off, so always wash your hands before you even touch anything, including your tools and cleaning supplies. Also, some chemicals like xylene and laquer thinner are very toxic and absorb through the skin, I'd avoid those or brake fluid etc. that's marked as such. Anyway, don't ruin it trying to fix it, famous last words...


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