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This will only take about 3-4 minutes to read, and I promise you it’s worth it.
First and foremost, thank-you to all of my customers for their support, and their kind and encouraging words, both publicly and privately. I really appreciate it. Cheers to you all!
My gear is important to me. I put a lot of time, effort, and money [none of which I want to waste] in to it, and I like to think that I use logic and reason when making decisions about to my gear. I’m sure that all applies to you too, and I think it’s why you’re taking the time to read this [thanks for that, by the way].
I find the gimmick-laden marketing and oftentimes ridiculous pricing for “brand name” power cords a little insulting. I believe in Math and Science, not marketing gimmicks.
All aspects of your gear, from the specs to the overall sound/performance, are designed, manufactured, and stated based on “ideal conditions”. To put it in real terms, if your current [no pun intended] amplifier power cord suffers from a 2%-3% voltage drop [which is typical], then your amplifier is producing 2%-3% less power and your overall performance suffers as a result. There is a direct correlation between voltage drop and power/performance loss – that’s not marketing, that’s Math.
A power cord has two jobs – get electrical current from your outlet to your gear [using conductors and plugs], and keep the signal as clean as possible [using insulation/shielding]. You could distill it further and simply say, despite what some companies may tell you in their marketing, a power cord conducts electricity. And when it comes to conducting electricity, there are two simple and steadfast rules:
1. Higher Gauge = Lower Voltage Drop and Resistance [more/better current flow]
2. More Shielding = Less Interference [better signal integrity]
Before we get down to what this is all leading up to, I would like to share a quick back story with you.
I have been making cables for myself [and some friends and colleagues] for about 20 years now, and most of my knowledge and contacts were gained before the age of social media. That all changed a little while back when I had the opportunity to make some new contacts who work on the manufacturing side of electrical wiring/cables. After picking their brains about various products and manufacturing processes [and some of the companies they make wire for], eventually our conversations landed on the topic of power cords. All I really knew at the time was the two rules mentioned above, so I decided to do a deep dive. I came to realize that power cables generally top out at 10 AWG [except for a few ridiculously over-priced options], and I wanted to understand why. As the research piled up, I asked myself if I could offer a viable alternative, and the answers brought me here today.
In part, the 10 AWG barrier exists because there needs to be a dramatic increase in conductors and insulation if you want to make the jump to anything larger, which significantly increases manufacturing costs. If you have an insufficient amount of conductor strands you will have resistance issues, and 8 AWG wire can carry a significantly higher load than 10 AWG so it needs to be insulated accordingly. The increased size also makes termination difficult, because if you don’t have the option of creating your own housing from scratch [like a large-scale manufacturer does], you need to make due with aftermarket/DIY housings. The problem is most plug housings were only intended to be used with up to 10 AWG wire, so if you want to use larger wire, you need to be willing and able to modify the housings [and make a few swear jar contributions]. As a result, whether you’re a manufacturer or DIY’er, it is very difficult to control your costs [both time and money] if you attempt to push past the 10 AWG barrier. Therefor, it makes the process of conceiving and/or creating a power cable larger than 10 AWG… well… challenging to say the least.
Well… challenge accepted.
I proudly present to you “The .1”.
This beast of a power cable is 8 AWG, and it utilizes 25% more conductor strands, and 30% more insulation than typical 10 AWG cables.
To ensure high conductivity, this cable features rhodium plated plugs, OFC conductors, and premium heavy insulation inside the rubber jacket, which is also designed to isolate the +/- and ground from each other.
To ensure exceptional signal integrity, in addition the heavy premium insulation inside the rubber jacket, I wrapped a soft fiberglass sleeve outside the rubber jacket which is specially treated to all but eliminate EMI/RFI, which I then wrapped with insulated shrink tube [I don’t mess around when it comes to insulation].
Also, it is worth noting that the plug housings have been modified to comfortably accommodate the terminations [and the 3” finished circumference of the cable], and they have been wrapped with industrial grade heat shrink tube for strain relief and – wait for it – more insulation. Finally, the cable is finished off with a well made tightly braided sleeve.
The name comes from the fact that this cable achieves the nearly impossible - a Voltage Drop of less than 0.1%, and a loss of only 0.1 volts in its 1.5 meter [5’] run. That is based on a full 15 Amp load at 120 volts – no B.S. numbers here.
Keep in mind that a 3% voltage drop is considered “acceptable” in power cable manufacturing, so 0.1% is pretty much unheard of.
Now for the best part – The .1 can be yours for only $88.
I know that price seems low, perhaps even to the point that you find yourself saying, "What's the catch? This guy must be trying to pull something here."
Here's the deal.
You are not being made to pay for fancy packaging - I ship it in a nice solid mailing box to keep it secure and safe from damage
This letter/ad is my entire marketing and advertising campaign [and it's only posted on free sites], so you're not paying for that either
Finally, making these cables is something I really enjoy doing and it gives me time to myself [I'm a stay at home dad and a night owl, and I make them when everyone is asleep], so you're not even paying for my time.
All you are paying for is a well-made beast of a power cable WITHOUT a markup that is... if I may borrow from Jackie Chiles of Seinfeld fame... lewd, lascivious, salacious, outrageous!
I was driven to make these cables by pride and passion, not profit.
Also, as a token of my appreciation for your support and willingness to take a chance on me and my product, I will ship it to you anywhere in Canada for FREE. For those of you outside of Canada reading this, please contact me about shipping - I promise to work something out for you.
Regardless of what you currently own, or what’s on your wish list, rest assured that this cable will allow your gear to give you every drop of power and performance it was designed to give you.
Thank-you again for taking the time to consider my product.
NRG Custom Cables
P.S. Even if you don’t want to buy one, I welcome any feedback you want to give. Feel free to shoot me a message with your thoughts [please be gentle though - I have a weak heart].
Also, if you need a custom length or if you want multiple cables, let me know.
Jul 14, 17 4:16pm
Based on the feedback I’ve received so far [thanks again to all those who helped], here’s a short FAQ section:
Q. Is an 8 AWG power cable necessary?
A. In short – no. Great sales pitch, huh? If a 3% voltage drop is considered “acceptable”, then making something that achieves 0.1% is not really “necessary”. I’ll say this though - a V12 engine may not be “necessary”, but if I could get one for the price of a V6, it would be a very easy buying decision.
Q. Why did you cover the plug housing with heat shrink tube?
A. A few reasons, none of which were motivated by wanting to hide the materials I used. First, it’s a polycarbonate housing which doesn’t offer much in the way of insulation/shielding, and the shrink tube I used provides both. Second, I had to drill the housing to accommodate the wire, so I wanted to ensure that everything remained solid after the modifications. Lastly, this wire is heavy, so I wanted abundant strain relief – in addition to providing insulation/shielding, the heat shrink tube is also adhesive-lined, so it is STRONG [but not overly stiff].
Q. [Follow-up] Why didn’t you use an aluminum housing to provide better shielding?
A. I still would’ve had to drill it out and provide strain relief, so I would’ve ended up using shrink tube anyway. Therefor, an aluminum housing would only increase the price, not the performance [which is all I really care about].
Q. What makes you qualified to make/sell cables?
A. Formally? Nothing, unless you count my years in home A/V sales and installations. [yes, I know - another great sales pitch]
However, most of my cables are DIY jobs, and I’ve been making cables for friends and colleagues for nearly 20 years. Additionally, all my builds are thoroughly tested against various “high-end” cables to compare sound and build quality – I’ll be modest and simply say that they hold their own. I also recently checked on the oldest builds of mine I could track down [from 2002] to ensure that the build and material quality are standing the test of time – they are. Finally, and most importantly, I truly believe that I am providing a viable alternative to the current offerings, pricing, and total B.S. marketing out there for power cords.
Q. Why is the price so low, and how many are you going to/can you make?
A. First, an explanation of the price. This batch is being made from wire that was left over from a spool I bought to complete some projects for myself [it’s specially made and I can only buy it in full spools]. So as far as I was concerned, the cost of the wire was pretty much covered when I was figuring out the price of a finished cable [and $88 for an 8 gauge sounded cool].
As far as how many I’ll make - I don’t know at this point. A full spool of wire is a big investment for me, not to mention all the other materials required, so I need to be confident that people will want to buy the finished product, and more importantly, be happy with it. That’s why I need feedback in all forms from all sources, then will I know if I can/should make more.